ULTIMATE DIY LEGO Table Build // Woodworking with LEGO



[Music] i'm caleb thank you for joining me i'm so excited about this project i've had it kicking around my head for a while and it's so great to finally be able to share it if you're interested i do have plans available and links to everything i use below but with that stick with me and i'll show you how you can make this too this table is made from just a single sheet of plywood some edge banding and lego pieces i started by breaking down the plywood into manageable pieces with my track saw before cutting them to size at my table saw but the plywood could be cut to size with just a circular saw that's all you have now a neat trick i've picked up to remove stickers from wood is to hit them with a heat gun for a few seconds and then they peel right up without leaving any that nasty residue behind i wanted the sides of this to have arches to create feet so i laid them out by first marking where the shelf and all the supports would be on the side and then tried a few different arches until i found one i liked and then i duplicated that to the other piece an arc is just a slice from a circle and circles are easy to draw with a compass but for low arches like these the center of the circle is off of the piece so i started by marking two equal points on each side where i wanted the arc and the center line then i put a piece of equal thickness wood beneath my stock so my compass would stay level and not get wonky and then i use those three marks that i made to get my compass pivot in exactly the middle of the circle and then draw the arc i cut the curve with a jigsaw and then smoothed it out at my spindle center but if you don't have a jigsaw you could always use a band saw which would save some sanding alternatively if you hate yourself this cut could also be done with a coping saw and then hand sanded the last bit of shaping is rounding off the corners of the top to a 1 inch radius to class it all up a bit and hopefully reduce the chance of a traumatic injury to my children i do this at the router table i recently built because i'm still in love with it and trying to justify having it in my shop but it could be done with a bandsaw jigsaw or sanding this table will be painted and plywood edges just don't paint well so i put iron-on edge banding on every edge that will be exposed that's a fast and pretty inexpensive way to get a much better paint job and also make a high-quality plywood hand-built piece look like it's just an impulse buy from a retailer that has groceries two hours from their furniture now this is the first project where i've needed to put edge banding on an inside curve and i kind of figured my iron wouldn't be a good tool for that so i used a spring clamp to help hold the edge banding in place a heat gun to heat the glue on the banding and then a piece of pipe insulation to smoosh them together now a j roller would work better but believe it or not i don't own every tool known to man so i make do edge banding is oversized to make it easier to apply and i prefer to use a chisel to trim it down but there are many techniques for that also my edge banding tends to just very slightly pull away at the edge in some places if you have any experience with that and some suggestions on how to prevent it please let me know in the comments but for now i deal with that by just using a little bit of wood putty and then sanding everything smooth now for joinery i opted to use pocket holes because i'm going to assemble this twice they're quick to use and easy to take apart but if you lack a pocket hole jig a doll jig will also work or this table design is a great candidate for domino joinery i'm assembling now so i can mark where all the pieces actually meet and intersect each other so i can design my lego inlays but if you prefer simplicity and don't like over complicating your projects you could honestly call construction on the base complete right here and just paint it however i use my projects as an attempt to escape the mediocrity of myself so here we go i started by knowling a bulk bag of building bricks into similar pieces and then built the inlays that i'll be setting into the wood the pieces you see me building here are a bit different than what you'll see me later because i uh reasons after i built the right shape i used some ca glue to bond them together and it's been working fine and that's an important note because if you try to research the right glue to use like i did the internet will quickly tell you that every glue is wrong for lego i add a few more marks to make sure i put all the table pieces back in the same place so the screw holes align and then i take it all back apart again now i can mark exactly where my lego creations will be inserted and start removing wood either out of penance or artistry or maybe that's a false dichotomy some of these inlays are set into joints where three pieces of wood meet and believe it or not those inlays aren't any more difficult to cut than the simple ones i just spent a lot more time finessing them into position before marking but if patience isn't your thing then make up for it with wood putty or skip this all together and probably have a stronger table i start with one of the three-way intersections and the first piece i decided to cut out is the vertical support that it meets with because of the pattern here i decided to use a pull saw to do all the cutting but a jigsaw would really work once i'm finished with that then i route out the shelf piece that this is going to mate with and i set my router to the same depth as the lego so that way the lego nubs on top will be flush with the shelf so it doesn't interfere with anything you might put on the shelf and last i moved to the side piece and right out the pocket that's also going to have the reveal when i almost finished routing the pocket on the side piece i realized there was a better way to go about it as is i routed out a pocket the depth of the lego and then the thin veneer left wasn't thick enough for most tools so i use an x-acto knife to cut out a pattern that'll reveal the lego now the larger flat inserts i approached a smarter way they had some lego nubs sticking out so i marked where they hit and then drilled small pockets so the insert would sit flush against the plywood so i could get a better mark now i took care here not to be too close to any edges to make sure the table still has plenty of strength then i marked out the reveal pattern that i wanted to be visible inside of the outline and now for the smarter technique so to cut out the reveal i first drilled some through holes and then used a jigsaw to cut them out this is also a good opportunity to bust out a scroll saw but i don't have one of those now my vision here is that the table will appear to be made of plastered over lego but it's breaking and worn revealing the structure underneath hence the jagged edges and varying depths of the lego then last for the inlays is to route out the pocket to the same depth of the lego so they sit in the wood this is why i made the lego inserts into rectilinear shapes it's a lot easier to route out a few straight lines than some crazy lego contour and this was a lot easier than routing the whole thing and then trying to cut the reveal then i just repeated these techniques as needed for the rest of the inlays i had some of the lego inserts i built with double width bricks and some with single width bricks the single width bricks have a lot more wood between them and the outside and the reveal holes there just didn't feel right so i took a rasp and files and added a bit of a chamfer to them but plywood doesn't really care to be rasped and filed so i came back with wood putty and sandpaper to literally smooth things over in hindsight my palm router with a chamfer bit probably would have been a much better way to go for this step but i didn't think of that putting the table back together went quick since some of the pieces could obviously only go one way for the inlays to line up and the rest were marked because some things i do the smart way the first time as i went i installed any lego inserts that were held captive by the structure but i did mask them with painters tape first for the double brick inserts where there is only veneer covering the brick and i can't use brass and files i just use some wood putty to create a mild chamfer and smooth things over and lastly i used a dowel rod to plug the pocket holes in the center divider that might be visible the rest are hidden and i plan on them staying that way now to the table top the next steps i'm doing are just because i want this to have a flip top so the lego can't interfere with the base but if the top was permanently installed then this is all unnecessary i mark the center of the plywood and then line up the plates that i'll be gluing down later i have flat lego bricks holding them together and keeping the plates properly spaced and that spacing also creates a gap between the plates that i use to align them before marking the edges then i go to the table saw and use a dado stack to create a recess slightly deeper than the lego plate this is so the top will sit flat on the base whenever it gets flipped over and with that everything is ready for paint i opted for white to create a high contrast with the lego inserts so they really pop off camera i brushed on two coats of primer and sanded it down before spraying on two coats of milk paint as the finish because i found that i get a smoother surface spraying than brushing now the top needs some way to stay in position so it doesn't just slide off but it's still really easy to flip over the solution i used was to drill holes in the center of the base sides and then use dowel locators to transfer the holes to the top then i drilled the holes through the top at those marks and chamfered them with a counterseek bit then i glued small dowel pins into the base so the dowels register in the holes in the top to keep the top in place but let it be picked up and flipped over pretty quickly and easily and because i wasn't smart enough to do that before painting i go ahead and do some touch-up paint now to the fun stuff i use more crack ca glue to hold the lego inserts in place taking care to keep it from oozing out into the reveal and remove all the masking tape if you're really enjoying this please consider hitting that like button subscribing if you're not already or sharing this any and all of those actually help a lot and if you're interested i do have plans available for this and if you become a patron i have plans available for free at certain rewards levels and there's links for all that below thanks one of the inlays i put in i had to use some wood putty to cover up some bad cuts so there was wood putty all caked in the lego so i used an exacto knife to scrape out the bulk of it and then came back with a toothbrush using half water and denatured alcohol to brush out the rest since the top will be flippable i don't want the base to more the top so i put a bunch of tiny felt pads on the top of the base now i opted out of using the wider pads because they were twice as thick as these small ones and they would have interfered with the dowel and hole mating system thing i used so the last step was to glue the plates to the top unfortunately i mistakenly thought i hit record and missed recording this step but it's really simple i used some slow set epoxy and brushed it around all the edges where the plates would be and then painted some spots in the field of the plates sort of in the same pattern as the five on dice some spring clamps and heavy wood served as overnight clamps [Music] you

pexels photo 5973892

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