Table saw dovetail jig build 1/2

So, this is my prototype
experimental hinge jig. And, this is the dovetail
part of the jig. And, I built these just to test. And, I've already realized
there's a whole bunch of improvements I could
make to this, so I designed a better one, and I'm gonna
build it in this video. So, I've printed out the plans,
and I've got perspective drawings for some of the
pieces, and for some of the plywood parts, I actually
printed out as one-to-one so I can just punch through
those for the screw positions. There's really not
much to these jigs. For the material, I'm
gonna be using pieces of a 2 by 5, and 2 by 4, and
I got a chunk of maple for the hardwood parts, here.
And, for the plywood, I bought a quarter sheet of
Birch ply, from the Home Depot. So, I've just cut the plywood
pieces, which are the bases, and the backs, and next I
need to cut the Spruce parts, which are these
bits here and here.

So, that's always a risk, when
cutting up construction lumber. Sometimes there's internal
stresses, and it'll clamp down on the blade. Now, if
I had a riding knife that would be better,
but this saw can't take riding knives. The
question is, always, do you try to run it through,
or do you back it out? The important thing is, never
let go, and I've never a case of kick-back with that
kind of thing happening. Next, I need to cut this dado
for this piece to fit in here. And, I'm cutting that
off of this piece here, and I'm just gonna use
the drawing, and mark approximately where that goes. So, as usually, I'm too lazy
to put in a dado blade, so I've got the fence set
to one stop of the dado, and on here I've got this block so I can just make
a series of cuts. So, now I just need to
cut off a tiny bit more to make that fit. So, these measure
about 772, and 773, and my slot is 753, so I
should bring the fence in by about 20 thou.

So, I'm just gonna use a dial
magneter to verify that. So, setting that to zero,
let's move it by 20 thou. And, that makes for a nice
and snug fit in the slot. that still slides easily.
So, I need my bases to go right on the middle of
the blade, like so. And, that means I
need to cut the slot with the guide bar, right here. So, to make that cut
safer to cut, I'm gonna flip my work piece around, and put it, like so. and then put the fence here. and just make a
series of rip cuts. So, I was gonna cut these slots
a little bit too narrow, and gradually widen
them until I got the perfect fit, but it turns out
the first time I tried it, it actually already fit
perfectly, so I was lucky it didn't go over.
So, next I need to mark the screw positions
and I'm just gonna use my one-to-one paper templates, so I won't have to measure the
positions for any of the holes.

So, for the holes for the
guide bar, I actually have to make sure these center
on the guide bar because the guide bar
position may be different from where it is in the plans, so I'm just gonna position
the template a little bit off to the side. And, now
I can mark these holes And, next I need to
position the template so that it's exactly
on a piece of wood. So it lines up on all sides. And, now I'm gonna punch
the other mounting holes. And, while I'm at it,
I'm gonna mark some of these lines here, just through
the template with a chisel. And I might as well mark
the other base as well while I'm at it.

Now, this fits on here, like
so and then this on here. And, I still need to screw
those things together. So, the bolts go in here, and
they're all 1 1/2 centimeters from the edge. So, I'm
just gonna mark these with a caliper. So, I just drilled the
screw holes in here, but before I screw these
two parts together, it helps to make the
things that go on here and mount them on here. So,
that's what I'll do next. So, for those hardwood
parts, I'm just gonna use my one-to-one paper templates. So, I won't have to do
a lot of measuring.

Just have to be very
careful when I place these templates on here. that the edge of the
template is exactly on the edge of the piece of wood. Next, I have to drill the holes
for the screws to go in here, and I have to sink it in here,
and that would have been much easier before I cut
this out, so I'll have to put a note on the
plans about that.

But, in the meantime,
with a pilot hole these won't be that
difficult to drill. So, these holes need to
make a very snug fit with the shaft here, but it's really
hard to get this one in. So, to get it up
to the right size, I took another piece of
this shaft and roughened up the front of it, so I can
use that as a reamer. And, that allows me
to expand the holes so that the shaft fits snug. I want it to be in there with
friction, because I don't want to have any play. So, now I can finally mount
these blocks on here, and the bottom of these is 7.9
millimeters from the top. So marking that with the
calipers here's the straight line that I need to line it up
to, and when I put these, I have to make sure that
that shaft is gonna end up exactly parallel
with the wood.

pexels photo 4491881

So, let me just
clamp that on here. Let's set the marking gauge
to one side of this. Moving it down here. Yeah,
they're not parallel so I need to move this
one over by a little bit. That's good. Now,
I'm just gonna mark where the pilot hole needs
to go, just by putting one of these screws in here.
And, the point will mark the wood. Now, in the future, I
want to put these on exactly the same way so that now I'm just gonna mark
which one was where. A, A. B, B. Now I can mount
this block on here and to get the pilot hole
positions for those screws, I just have to make sure
this is totally flush here, and it brings the same width. I'm gonna use these screws to
punch the pilot hole locations. And with the pilot holes drilled
I can now put this together. And, this is part A, so
that goes where the A is. Now, this part fits on the
base and I've already got my screw holes pre-drilled,
so I just have to line them up with those
lines here, which is why I punched the chisel through
the template before.

And, now I can punch
my pilot holes through here. So, as I was drilling the pilot
holes here, I noticed my drill was hitting the screws
here, 'cause these line up exactly. So, this
is very useful. I will make an adjustment in the
plan, I'll move these screws a little bit this when so
that when you build it you won't have that happening. With this base mostly
done, I'm not gonna make the part that mounts on here. And, this parts gonna have a
whole bunch of holes drilled in it, so I'm just gonna
use the template to mark where the holes need to go. So, lining all that up. And, there's also a notch that
needs to be cut at the top of it so I'm gonna mark that
through the template, so, I won't have to
attach it to the wood.

There's also a notch that's
gonna come out the bottom here, but that's gonna get cut with
a table saw, but just to get center reference, I'm gonna put
a mark through the template. So, next I need to glue a
ledge to the bottom edge of this board, which will
help support the stock as I'm cutting it. So, while I'm waiting for
the glue to dry here, there's a little block
that needs to go in here., and I've got a template for
that, but I'm just gonna mark on here, it just needs to fit
behind this other block. And, the purpose
of this block is when the saw blade's making
cuts, this helps deflect the sawdust down into
the table so it doesn't spread all around back here. And, I'm just gonna mount this
block with a dab of glue. And, I'll clamp that in
place, so right where it is. And, while I'm still waiting
for the glue to dry, I'm just gonna screw in the miter slot bar.

And, let's mark those holes. And, very important to make
sure I'll put it the same way again, I'll mark an
X here, and here. So, I've just pre-drilled
that and putting it back in the same place. I can now screw it on. I still need to drill some
holes in this part here for some screws to go in
here, and those will serve as a stops for when you
put this part on here and it'll tilt.

those screws have to be 2 centimeters from the end. And, we have to be 6
centimeters from the bottom. That'd be here. And here And, for safety, I'm
just gonna punch those. Now, the next tricky part
is, they have to be at a 10 degree angle,
so I've set this to a 10 degree angle and I'm just gonna eyeball
that with the drill, hoping that it's all level. So, now I can start building
up the pivoting mechanism. And, this block, I haven't
fully cut this to shape yet, but that's actually convenient
so it doesn't pivot. So, I'm putting
these guys in here, and the shaft through here. It's a little tight. And, now some 2 millimeter
thick spacers for down here. And, the ford, and if
I put that on here so it's centered, let's
just fix that in place. The screw holes should all
line up with the pieces behind, if these are exactly
in the right position. So, now I can punch
the center holes from all those holes.

So, I've just pre-drilled
the screw holes in here and I've cut this guide to the
right shape so it can tilt. So, now we should be
able to just screw this on here. There we go. So, this jig can pivot
to make, basically a cut between the pins
at different angles. And, to adjust which angle it
goes to, I'm just gonna use this angle gauge here.
And, you can see it goes to about that angle here.
I'm just gonna mark that 'cause that's the
10 degree angle. And, I need to bring that
screw out so that it hits. Now, the hole here doesn't
line up, but if I tilt it this way, I
can get in there with a screw driver and adjust that screw. There we go. So,
that's 10 degrees. And, now I can just do the
other thing the same way.

So, let's see how
this thing does. So, we got a tapered
slot for a dove tail. Now, I just need to
finish the dove tail jig..

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