Rip Cut Guide / Workbench Build Part 2



This is the second video in the multi-function workbench series. In this video I’m going to install the benchtop
and make the cutting station. As you can see in this brief summary, it’s very easy to operate and makes it possible to make repetitive cuts or cut bigger boards in a faster, more convenient and efficient way. I’ll go over its functions in depth in the
next few videos.

First I’m going to install a few pieces
of light plywood which will allow me to get some use out the small gaps at the bottom
of the bench. After cutting all their parts, I screw them
on. I can use these gaps to store protection boards for the top, or the vacuum tube, which I will later attach to the bench. Now I make sure the central part of the cabinets, which will later support the benchtop, is at the same height as the bench frames.

It seems I have to trim it a little. It probably won’t be necessary, but I’m
going to cut and glue on a few plywood parts to strengthen the central support and make
it thicker. Now I can finally attach the benchtop. It weighs around 60 kg, which means it’s
not going to be easy. I set it down on two pegs on the floor and
against the back of the bench, just like I will do whenever I need to put big boards
on the bench in order to cut them. It’s a high quality beech finger joint board
sent to me by the company Basicmadera. It will be perfect for this woodworking bench/workbench hybrid, keeping it sturdy and stable when we are working.

It’s made with strips of wood that are glued
together and connected by finger joints. With this kind of joint and since it’s hardwood,
I think my benchtop will stay in perfect condition for many years. If you are interested in this or other similar products, check out the link to the site below the video. First, we have to precut it to size with a
circular saw and a guide. I flip it over and apply a coat of matte water
based varnish. Now that it’s upside down, I’ll attach
the vise as well. I flip it over one more time, measure its
exact position and drill holes to fasten it to the bench frames. I’ll use hex lag screws with washers, meaning the top half of the holes should have the same diameter as the washers and the bottom
half should have the diameter as the screws. I won’t put screws in the central part of
the top. I don’t think they’ll be necessary. Now with the router with its plunge base I’ll
leave the edges of the tops completely flush.

I’ll use a flush trim router bit and an
aluminum fence. I should make sure the back edge is straight in order to achieve straight cuts with my rip cut guide for the plunge circular saw. Now I measure the positions of all the holes in the benchtop where I can put holdfast clamps and dogs. I stop a few millimeters short of drilling
through to avoid damaging the bottom of the benchtop.

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I drill the first hole and make sure the steel
rod is plumb. Now, with this router bit I can remove that
little amount of wood left in the holes. It’s time to sand the entire surface of
the benchtop and apply some linseed oil. I’ll use oil because it will make maintenance
easier. Then, using the leftover scraps of wood from the benchtop, I’ll make the pieces that make up the rip cut guide. I make them straight with the planer and cut
them to size. I have to make groover to slide in the t-track
guides. We could also use a U-shaped aluminum profile here, like the one I installed on my table saw.

With that same saw, I’ll make the grooves
in several runs. After configuring my 3D router I’ll machine
the height adjustment grooves. They could also be made with a plunge router
and a guide. With the router table I’ll make a rebate
for the self-adhesive measuring tape. Finally, I apply some linseed oil on both
pieces. I already made grip knobs with hard plywood and a square neck bolt. You can see how to make them in other videos
in my channel. With them, I can attach the pieces to the
bench. I mark and fasten the t-track guide screws
and make sure the slider works okay. This model can be adjusted, by tightening
a screw, the slider expands, reducing play. Next, I’ll make the rip cut guide. I mark the hole where the circular saw will
go and cut it on the table saw. I have to make some rebates for the circular
saw’s knobs and a bezel for its body. I do the same operation on both sides so that
I can use the circular saw in both directions. With the table saw I make another groove to achieve a more precise cutting size, and with the table router I cut a groove to lock the guide at the appropriate measurement for cutting.

I make the other part of the guide, making
recesses for the slider and the aluminum piece that will allow for a more precise adjustment of the cutting size with the table saw, too. Now I’ll prepare a piece of HPL to fit the
guide rail that comes with the plunge circular saw in the bench and make cross cuts. I cut it on the table saw and finish it with
the disc sander. I mark the position of the screws, drill holes on the rail and the HPL piece with a bit with less diameter to make a thread. I cut this piece of the T-track guide through which the disc will run when making cross cuts. I also prepare this other piece to attach to the front of the workbench and fasten the rail on the other side. This way I can ensure the cuts are always
square. I make a groove for the disc on the benchtop,
about 2 mm deep. Now I’ll make another jig to cut angles,
and try out the cutting station while I’m at it.

I also cut some board strips that I can set down the benchtop to avoid damaging it. With the rest of the beech board I build the other part of the miter jig like before; and I also prepare a steel pipe to work as rotation axis. I put the pieces together with screws, glue
the tube on and fasten the t-track. Now all that’s left is to make the miter
track stops. In order to make the process easier, I’ll
mill a long piece of plywood with the router, which I will later cut down to size.

I make the rest of the rebates with the band
saw. I cut and drill holes in the aluminum pieces that go on the t-track guide, and that wraps it up for today. In a few days I’ll post another video showing you how to build the holdfast clamps and workbench dogs. See you soon!.

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