Real Life Full Size Enderman – Woodworking How-to (Minecraft)

Hey guys, it's Adam here and we have another
fun project. This one is going to be the biggest one yet. I just finished drawing these up
in Illustrator. We are going to make a full sized Enderman. Well.. it's going to be full
size if you are a kid. I think an adult full size, like for me, would end up being 13FT
tall. Just a guess. And I couldn't fit that in my basement.

So this is going to be a bit
smaller but it will seem life-sized if you are a kid. Which will be fun for Halloween,
I think we'll set this up. One thing I noticed; I was looking at the game and I drew all this
up, the legs are shorter than the arms and another weird thing was this jaw fits inside
the skull but it's a bit smaller.

It's not how I though it would be constructed. It's
kind of strange. Here I did a mock up in paper. So the squares that make up the jaw are smaller
than the squares on the skull. I'll have to figure out how that part is going to be constructed.
But what I usually do is at least get started on the parts that I know and then when there
is a problem I'll slowly figure that out later. So this will be fun. We have to get some wood.
All this will fit on a 4×8 sheet of plywood. I want to make it as light as possible but
if I use wood that is too thin it could be breakable and flimsy. I'll have to find out
what the right balance is between weight and that kind of thing because these legs are
so long, and where they attach is so skinny… there is so much leverage on this, it's hard
to anticipate before hand the physics of construction. But I think I have a good enough idea, we
can just go ahead with it. So I'm going to run down and get some wood and we'll get this

I had Home Depot cut it in half for me. It makes it easier in the car and also easier to push around on the table-saw. I'm not moving a whole sheet. This is 1/2" thick.
A bit thicker than I initially wanted. It's going to make the project heavier but it's ok. There is the barcode. Lets see…. MADE IN ECUADOR On this plywood I'm going to run
on this half I'm going to run all the arms and legs except one of the pieces. I'm going
to follow the grain. Also you will notice there is a good side and bad side. See the
filled in knot hole there? And on this side there is nothing. This side is going to be
everything exposed and these parts will be the inside.

All the pieces will be cut
out of this wood except for the faces of the head. The front back and sides of the head.
And that is because it needs to fit inside the lower jaw. I'll show you more about that
in a minute. What I'm going to do is take one of the halves of the plywood right now,
cut it into 3" strips. I have the sawblade set just at the right depth. So we are ready
to go. I'm going to turn on the shopvac. And that is it, lets have some fun building this.
Hopefully it turns out good you never know in the beginning what it is going to be like
at the end. But I'm usually pleased. I finished cutting out most of the pieces
here. There is the arms and the legs. The legs are actually smaller than the arms.
There is the head and the torso pieces, or most of them. And now I have to cut a 45º angle
so that I can join these pieces. I cut a little test piece here and you can see this matches
up like that.

So that way you don't have any of that plywood end-grain to you have to take
care of. If you don't have these kinds of tools that I am going to use and you want
to join it just like that you are going to have to take care of the exposed wood edge.
I'm going to use my router for this. I have a 45º bit and that way I can run all the
pieces I need to without adjusting anything.

The other way to do it would be to tilt your
blade at 45º but you will need to move the fence around a lot, so that is why
I am opting for this method. Now it's time to nail. We have most of the pieces cut up. There are some we cant do yet. Here is 4 pieces of one leg. Were going to put these together. I'm going to hold it together with a rubber band and glue while I am using these little nails
here I think these are 3/4" or something like that. For the smaller more delicate parts
I an going to use these pin nails. These tiny little things. These don't have a head on
them. They are just like little bits of wire basically. So we have this hooked up to an
air compressor. This piece is the side of the torso and here
is the bottom.

So there is going to be a notch in here for the piece to come up in. So that
I can remove it later. Here is the back of the torso, there is the side and this is the
bottom. And this notch allows me to screw in a piece of wood there and also I can remove
it so I can get to the inside for whatever parts and screws.

Things like that. So I am
going to nail and glue this just like the other parts. Well here it is now and I'm
going to explain the next three cuts. Turns out this is the actual shape of the head but
it sits one block lower into the torso because in Minecraft they don't care about physics
but in real life you have to. So this head should be this high. And this part just kind
of sinks into the torso. What I am going to do is cut that bottom set off so it's the
right height. Next thing we are going to do is this torso is flipped around so I am going
to run this on the tablesaw now that I know the exact dimensions of this inset.

So cut
this a little shorter so it fits in. And the third thing is these arms, they are going
to mount here and I am going to throw a bolt through it and to make sure that it's got
enough material to hang securely I am going to put in a piece of wood in the middle there.
So lets do those three things. Now to attach the arms I'm going to use these lag bolts.
You can see on one end it has machine threads. That's pretty cool, I'm going to put this
in here and it's going to be held securely because remember we reinforced all this. It's
solid wood, at this part. Not the whole thing. And then on this side right here, you can
see there is no threads, that is going to ride inside right here so it is not going
to grind the wood up. And on this side here it is just machine threads so I can put a
nut on. I'm going to use these gum-nuts.

That is what these are called, you can see it had
rubber at the end and that rubber just helps to grip it so that it does not come loose
over time. You can always just use regular lag bolts if you want. I have to set this
arm down a little lower because if the arm is forward.. Lets say the arm is right up
there, if I tilt the arm, you see it is going to come up right into the head and then the
head is going to be locked. So I'm going to move it down like that so that the arms can
move and the head can still move. And I am going to throw some bolts straight down into
the legs. The legs are not going to move at all. This is really kind of a top heavy guy.
So we are also going to have to make a base because this will not stand by itself. It
will just fall over. Now I'm drilling into the top of the leg for these bolts to go into
and you can see these holes that I notched out.

And that's just incase I want to run
some cables or wires or whatever in the future, then it will be easier. Because I am making
this up as I go along and I don't know if I am going to want to be able to do that so
I just did it anyway because it is going to be easier to do it now. There is not enough wood to put in screws here so
I'm going to glue some wood here, throw in some screws, and that will be how this attaches.
But so far so good. I stuck a flashlight in so you can see what is going on. This is a really high bolt so I am going to add some washers. That way I don't have to spend too
much time tightening it. I really have to get a wide angle lens, it make it a lot easier
filming. Especially something big like this. Hey that is cool. Look at that. Lets see how
far we can go up before it tips over. There it goes. Still… thats pretty neat. I'm happy
with that.

Now lets do the other one. Now it's time for the jaw now here is the base.
This part is going to go in like that. And then you have these parts you can see I just
drew these up. There is the right side of the jaw, left side of the jaw. And once they
are cut out of wood it's going to be nailed on there like that. It slips in underneath
and then when he gets all excited and yelling at you then his head raises and then you see
the rest of the teeth or whatever that stuff is. I have this page, the left and right sides
of the front. The sides of the jaw are right here, like that. I added an extra square because
I didn't want it exposed when he lifts his head up. Just in case I'm giving myself some
extra room there. Thats the sides… and the back, just a mirror image. I'll get all these
cut out and hopefully this fits in well and Normally in these videos I like to tell you a bit about the tools I am using and I don't think we
talked about tablesaws yet.

So I will take just a minute to tell you about how tablesaws
work. This one is a multifunction tablesaw were you can add a router there and use this
as a router table, things like that and I really only use this as a tablesaw. You can
get tablesaws pretty small. The first one I had was just little, I think it was maybe
13" square for the table. And it uses a small blade. It was not that accurate but it was
really good to have and I bought it used for $25 or so. You know, there are options. What
I would prefer would be just a dedicated tablesaw with a really solid top but you have to have
the room and they are super heavy too. Basic functions; you have a fence here. If I lift
the handle up I can slide the fence back and forth. I never use this, I always either line
up the the saw like this. See I'll look straight down and line up the edge of the blade with
the line I want to cut and then back the fence up to that edge.

Or sometimes I measure it.
But usually I don't measure I just do it like this. Line it up like that and then the fence
will meet it and then you lock the fence into place. When you are pushing the wood though
just make sure you don't do this, watch the edge here, don't turn it like that ok? Because
what is going to happen is two things, one, you are going to get a bad cut and two, you
can grab the blade.

If you are pushing wood through and it grabs, it's spinning toward
you all these little teeth are coming right at you and it will grab the wood and throw
it at you. So you want to make sure that when you are pushing it though it just rides the
fence nice and flat. Keep your fingers totally away from this. I have a guard I never use
it. Ever. so once the wood goes through like this, gravity
just makes these pieces fall onto the wood so that if the wood wants to throw back these
teeth bight into it. and this plastic part is just to make sure that your fingers don't
touch the blade.

I don't use it. I don't recomend not to use it but I don't. Then you have a
push-stick. You can make these out of wood. You can cut out a handle just like this and
it has that little notch right there, and that notch goes on your wood, and you can
push your wood through. That way your fingers are very far away. And that is especially
handy when the work is really close to the blade. I use this sometimes in combination,
I'll hold this in my right hand, the wood over here. Now lets say you need to cut a
piece of wood like this… well you don't want to do it like that. You can, and sometimes
I do, but that is not the right way to do it. With one this big it's very easy to make
it wobble and if you get this in here and it pinches against the blade again it's going
to fling it and throw it and you are not going to get a good cut.

So they have a little miter
fence. I doubt your saw is going to be like this anyone who is going to be buying a saw.
This is just what Ryobi did on this model but here is how this one works. Let me flick
that up. This goes down there, lock into place. What's neat about this one really… this
whole thing moves. So it's not sliding on the table. So what you do, you put your wood
on this fence and then you cut like that and you don't have to worry about it getting squirrely
on you. What else? Your blade should be a bit higher than whatever you are trying to cut. Not much more than that. And if you are doing a very deep cut, do it in several cuts. So if I was going to cut an inch or two deep I would have the blade that high, make a cut
then raise it make a cut.

You don't want to remove too much material at once. If I spin
this it raises and lowers the blade. It's good to lower the blade when you are done
using your table saw, don't leave it up like that. That way if anybody comes in and turns
it on, it's not going to hurt anybody. So when you are done using it, lower it below
the table. This is a lock so I can move that there and then I can spin it.

Right now it
is at 0º meaning it's perpendicular to to table. If I spin it I can get the blade to
tilt. See that? then I can lock it in place. If I am going for exact I don't ever trust
these measurements, I'll hold rulers up to this.. angles and make sure that the
angles are right. I can't think of too much else. Stuff like this, safety switches, you
have to lift it up to turn it on but to turn it off you just hit that fast so that it is
easy to turn it off. I guess that is about it. If you have any questions about how these
work let me know. Anyway lets get back to building so right now I actually need to use
this and square some of this stuff up.

One other thing, you can get what is called a
'dado blade.' This is a bunch of blades, you can see one, two, and these oval shaped ones,
there are several of them. So what you do with these is there is this little disc that
goes in between them and you stack them. These two big blades are on the outside and these
oval shaped ones are on the insides and these are staggered. So you can have a tablesaw
blade that is super wide and can cut a nice big slot in the wood and that is helpful if
you are doing things like drawers or shelves. You know I bought this for I think it was
$80 and I have never used it. I have had it for over a decade. Otherwise if you do not
want to buy a dado you can pass the wood through it will make a cut in the wood only as big
as the blade. And then you slide it over, slide it over, and that is called nibbling.
You can nibble a slot in, it's not as nice.

So these are good but nobody wants to take
the time if you only need one cut like that nobody is going to remove the blade and put
this on, it's just a pain. but if you have a big project where you are making a lot of
those kind of cuts then these are handy. I have never needed it. I should probably sell
this. It's just taking up space and if I have not used it by now, I don't think I am ever
going to use it. Alright, lets get going. Now we just let this dry a little bit. And
we can figure out how this will attach. This part does not move, it can swivel but it's
not going to go up and down. I have tried thinking of a few ways this will work and
I can't think of any other way than to have a rod come up and move the head up.

I don't
want a rod showing but I really can't think of another way. This should go inside. Hopefully
it works well. It's smaller than the top. When he screams he will be like that. Yelling
at you. It will have to be like that. Because the teeth are going
to cover the eyes up otherwise. We will have it like that. I'll have to figure that out.
That's a problem. Let me figure that out. I just went and double checked. Here is what's
going on, the jaw on the game is just a little bit smaller which would make the squares smaller
but not by that much, but it is up a bit like that and they do cover the eyes behind now
because it is a video game that does not matter but in real life, this matters because the
light wont go through as well.

I'm just going to go with it like this and we will
add the plastic here the plexiglass and see how much of a shadow it makes and make some
adjustments later but I cant anticipate what it is going to be like now. We will have to
just go for it and if we need to make a change later we will do that but for now this is
how it is going to be.

I will drill some holes in it. We'll try to get this head to swivel
and see how we can make this lift. This top part is kind of heavy so I don't know how
this is going to work. I have been thinking about this for a while and this is what I figured out. I'm going to use 3/4" PVC for sprinkler lines and this is going to control
the swivel of the lower jaw. That's it. I'm going to attach this to the lower jaw. Then inside here is going to fit this conduit and this is a metal pipe that usually you run
Romex cable in or something like that. That's going to be inside here and this is
going to go up an down. The problem is I can't have the jaw swivel this way and the head
swivel the other way.

It has to stay locked so what I am going to do is cut a slot in
here 6.5" long and then through there I'm going to put a screw so that this can't spin.
So when the head turns it's you know… kind of complicated. This is getting into puppeteering
really. I have been practicing hole sizes on this scrap and I have the right diameter.
Unfortunately the drill bit is not one that will fit in a power drill. Let me show you
what I have here. If you have never seen this kind of drill it's 'old-timey.' I got this
from my grandpa. You see the end of this bit? It's square and that fits… it's probably
too dark. Let's spin that so you can see what it looks like. Inside see those jaws? They
are going to bite onto the square. It's kind of weird. You can cut this off and put it
in a drill because it is just a round shaft. You can use a hacksaw and cut those off. It can go both ways or you can click this and it
can move just like a socket wrench.

You can have it go one way, the other or both ways
locked. Now this drill bit is an adjustable one. See the threaded screw here? It screws
into the wood to pull it in. Then you have the tooth right here that bites it and chisels
it out. You see these markings here? If I undo this screw I can slide this bit so that
I can have any sized hole I want.

This is a really handy bit. I have one that will fit
into the drill but I can't find it. Who made this anyway? IRWIN – made in the USA I'm going to put this screw right
there and this is how it works. What's nice about this is that you can go at your own
speed. So now the first cut is just going to gouge it and scrape it. I'm going to go
about half way through.

That is about good enough. Now because there is nothing for it
to bite into anymore it doesn't pull itself all the way through. It has nowhere for the
threads to grab into. So I will take it out and we will come in from the other side and
that way it will chisel a nice clean hole Reverse it to clear some of the debris. Lets see if that fits.

Yes that's good. It's not
wobbling around. The same thing needs to happen on the top of the torso. a very thin little bit on the router table
and I am going to cut a slot into this about 6-1/2" long. I will mess around with this
and we will see if this works. Well I forgot to film this part, I epoxied this in and I
used a little bit of a coupling as a stop and that helped hold it in place while the
glue was drying. I cut a slot on both sides and there will be a bit of metal to keep it
from turning. This goes in there and that is going to move like that. Because there
is a lot of friction I am going to cut a hole in a disc and it will slide on the plastic
and this is good because it is so big that the head won't wobble.

I will use a hole saw
in reverse. and it glides really well. There is such a
small gap in between the head and torso. We are going to add this conduit piece that I
cut too short so I had to put a coupler on I can just go out and buy another but I can
do that later. You can see the little hole there. I am going to slip a coat-hanger wire
through it. I have to put the camera down. spin it because its locked but it can go up
and down. This shaft can spin. If I stand it up I can spin the PVC pipe but I can't
spin the metal pipe independently.

pexels photo 6798565

You can see how well this spins with the DVD, it's
really smooth. I cut a piece of pipe because I cut the first one too short. We have the patient here. It feels like you have a corpse
on your workbench. I'm going to use wood filler. I bet this is more like Bondo. I have never
used this exact stuff. It comes with hardener so I bet it smells the same. There are some
spots here and there..

I am going to paint it.. fill in the gaps. I'm going to work on
making the head lift up later because if I run out of time I definitely want this
done by Halloween. I'll do the important stuff first and if I don't get to the head raising
up in time then so be it. Right now I will fill in the holes, sand it and paint it. I
will have to make a stand so this can stand on it's own and not tip over. Lets take a
look at this wood filler. yes this is just Bondo. Which I already have. Maybe
I won't even use this more containers of chemical around here. I
like to use up what I have first. And boy this stinks! I really should not do it in
the house. My family is going to get mad, but I will do it quick and haul this thing
out of here. I'm going to use the same Bondo that we used on the bomb.

Don't mix up much because
it is just a waste if you do not use it in time. I'll just guess on how much hardener
to use. A few drops. The more hardener you use the quicker it sets. Well that definitely reeks and it will take a lot longer than I thought. I'll do a sanding now and use regular
wood filler on the nail heads but the corners I will use Bondo. Lets skip ahead. I'm going to paint it. Here is what it looks like before sanding. I just got it all in the corners.
It didn't take too much sanding to get it really flat and smooth. It really was fast.
Probably because it is all straight. It was really easy. I will use this. Its's a filler
so it is going to help fill in the texture of the wood. I will probably do a very light
sanding after this and then we paint it black. Hopefully I can do this before it rains. Just to try it out I got a $1 can of spray-paint.

You can find it at Walmart, Home Depot or
Lowes. I don't know if it is going to be worth it or not. Let's find out. It seems kind of
thin. It's ok but you can tell it is
not as good. Lets just do a light coat. It's a dollar for a reason, it's not that good.
Boy this is bad spray-paint. It really is. I say it's worth it just to see that way you
appreciate the good stuff. Go ahead and spend $1 on this.

Good enough on this one. I will
clean it of and wipe each side on my pant leg so that I am not painting dust. I'm getting ready to paint this jaw this is
going to be a quick test. You might think that painting a Minecraft block is really
easy but it isn't. The colors differences are so subtle. If you are doing a dirt block, getting the different browns is not easy. I think this goes here. This is actually really

I need to find a better place to buy spray-paint. If you go to Home Depot or Lowes
and you want greys, you have maybe 2 options at best. It's either black, white or grey,
and maybe some other kind of grey, but it's usually some sort of metallic so it wont work.
Or some textured grey. We have black here under the blue. Then I got this can of automotive
paint that is more expensive. Auto paint may be the way to go when you want a greater color
choice. I'm just doing the face of the jaw and I am going to see how this looks with
the car paint. The black paint is still fresh. Lets go in the garage. This is what I got.
Dupli-color, it's supposed to duplicate car colors. This is a General Motors color. They
give you the automotive number 'Dark Spiral Grey MET' so MET = 'metal' maybe? It's really
close to black it might not be too noticeable but that's how the enderman is, it almost
looks black.

These cans are small and more expensive. I got this from Auto-Zone. O'Reilly
Automotive and those places seem to have this stuff. It's reacting. Darn it! Ok lesson learned.
See how it is puckering? The old paint was not ready. This will still give us an idea of the color but that is not going to fly for the final product. Look at that, how cracked it is.
I will let this dry and see if we like the color, if so we will do the rest once
it is totally dry.

I'll take this tape off. Here is another test i'm going to try Satin
Clear Enamel, it's just a clear coat with a satin finish. Maybe the contrast from a
satin next to a gloss will make up for it not being grey. Hopefully the paint does not pucker, but this is the base anyway so I don't care so much. I don't see why it wouldn't
pucker. Yes, it's doing it. Well it's been about 48 hours. I really wanted to let this
paint dry because the reason it was puckering was it was in this in between stage of wet and starting to dry.

If you remember we
had that puckering that we do not want. This was the base of the torso so it didn't really
matter I'm not worry about fixing it. I didn't want to mess up the rest of the paint
job and have to sand it down and start over. This is still letting off paint stink but
that's only if you are close. I am going to try again on this jaw. Remember we did the
car paint which is fine but super expensive and I am not that happy with it. I think this
looks cooler. The gloss paint and the satin that makes it look lighter grey. What I will
do is tape this off and we are going paint on some flat clear coat and see what we like
better, the flat or the satin. Here is what I'm going to use it's a Matte Clear so it
should be very flat. We want to make sure does not
pucker and look at that it really is.

Can you believe it? How long do you have to wait? Not good. This is not ready yet. Unbelievable. It's doing it there, here and here. This paint needs longer to dry so lets
make a stand. Here I already assembled a couple pieces of wood. About the right length. This
is just a scrap piece of wood from some furniture kit. These pieces are going to be bolted to
the base. The reason they look goofy is because I didn't have a piece this thick. It only
needs to be square on the ends. So that will go in there like that. Slip down inside and then this piece will stop it from rattling around. So we will set these back.

He is not
standing right in the middle, he will have to stand back a bit because his arms are going
to be hanging out and he is going to be holding a cube so that is going to push the center
of gravity forward. Because his arms are so long there is going to be a lot of weight.
He will sit back on the edge of the wood and the cube will be somewhere around there. Next up we need to add some wood in here so that when the base is on I have enough room to
attach screws. If I put in screws now it would split the plywood. So I am going to glue in
some pieces like this and that should be big enough for the screws. Normally I would staple this in from
the other side but I don't want the stapes to go through and I cant clamp
it now that it is painted.

I'm just going to force in wood as a brace until the glue dries. This paint puckering really stinks. It's making this project go a lot longer than
it should. I cant finish it. There is a lot of things I can't do because the paint will
get messed up. I think I called it 'orange peel' earlier. It's not, it is 'puckering.'
Orange Peel is when you have too much paint and it is like the name, it looks like an
orange peel. Puckering is when it has peaks and it squishes up. This piece of wood will act like a spring. It's way too long. Let me cut this one down too. Oh, that's no good.
I guess it will still work. Well the glue dried. These are ready for drilling. I have the legs and the base attached together. Slip those in like that. I will do 3 screws this side, three on the other and one on the short sides. Ok it's been three days now and I have
to be honest if this does not go on well and it causes puckering I think I will go a little

Lets hope we get it right. I'm flattening it, making sure there are no raises in the
tape. I will use the Satin, I'm going to try a very light mist of the paint. Hard to do. So far so good. That was not a light mist there. It looks alright, I don't see any deformation
in the paint I think we are good. Lets let this dry and we will go back and compare this to the flat and see if we like the satin or the flat better. Just when I was getting excited
and feeling good about it I put on another coat just before I brought this back in and
it started puckering. Isn't that terrible? Look at that. Ugh! There too, it's even worse.
Horrible. So the trick is a super light coat.

I'm still going to risk it because I cant
spend forever on this I have to get this finished. Unbelievably light coats. That is what I am
going to do. Tape it up, and we will just paint it and hope for the best. It might not
be easy to tell because it is so dark but this came out really neat. It looks really
good. So that is definitely the way to do it. Do the gloss and the satin and it looks
like two colors. On camera it doesn't come out as good because the gloss looks
almost mirror.

But man that is good. I have the lower jaw here and it's going to go on. Remember to put the plastic
that you choose. You want something in there to help it slide. You can
use a milk jug or whatever. This is kind of reminding me of a project my brother, brother-in-law
and I did. Back in 1995 we made a fan-vid
of Mystery Science Theater 3000. We built the robot puppets and everything.

Used PVC pipe to spin the head around. This is really bringing back memories. Maybe I'll show that at the end of this video. This video will
probably end with just the basic build and then I'll figure out the lights inside. Because
I want the eyes to light up. I want it to make sounds. I want the head to at least spin.
I'm going to put this on the porch and hopefully make it follow the trick or treaters when
they are walking down the street. That would be kind of fun. If I can, I'll figure out
how to make an effective head raise and have him yell and scream as he does. But that is
way too much to cram into this video so this is just going to be the basic build. To keep
this part of the pipe centered I'll add a piece of wood where the legs attach, so the
pipe slips in over the wood. That way if I am pulling fishing line or something the pipe can
move and not move around.

If that makes any sense. Sometimes this is just way complicated
to explain. Remember we drilled a hole in here and this pipe fits in the slot. Now I have to get a piece of
metal wire and bend it around. Here is a quick look at the base again.
Just a piece of wood, I'll change it later. I have it screwed on underneath. If I move the legs in the right spot it just slides right on. Nice and clean. On the top
you can see two bolts that hold those together. We will add the torso now. Actually it is more than the torso, it's the whole upper body. It's not that heavy actually, I thought
it would be heavier. Next up, we get to add some eyes. I printed out some eyes on photo
paper. Played around with the color. This looks correct right now but when I shine a
light through it I have no idea what it is going to look like.

Hopefully it still looks
good. I might need to change this but for now I will use this. I'll cut one out. I have overprint so it's ok if I am a little sloppy. I don't really need to cut this part off
because it is going to go right in the back like this. It will be held in place with some
plastic. I'm using an old cutting mat. You can use whatever you want. I'm using this because it will diffuse the light. Old broken LCD tvs have…

If you have never taken one
apart, go for it, it's kind of fun. You know how a cracked LCD tv is useless? If you open it up you can take the electronic screen part off and behind that is layers and layers of
plastic. They are designed to perfectly diffuse light. You can use some of those layers for
this if you like. Lets cut this. Right now I am going to secure this block. I drilled a hole for the pipe to go in. I will align it in the middle as best I can. This isn't an exact science. I 'm going to do a dab of hot glue so I can remove this. When I know where it is supposed to go exactly then we can glue it permanently. Alright, what do you guys think? Is that creepy enough? I want the kids walking down the street and this
just turns and follows them going down the sidewalk. At least. If I can get away with
that I would be happy.

Kinda fun. If you tighten these arms really stiff they stay out. Look
at that. I thought that would be way too heavy. Let me get the camera off. Yeah look at that. Well here it is so far. We are going to wrap up this video now but lets take a minute to
talk about what went well and what I might change. You can see some of the wood grain.
Coming through and that does not bother me but if you hated that and you didn't want
to see any wood grain you can just do a smear of Bondo and that will get rid of all of it.
But I didn't want to spend that much time.

I'm happy enough with how it came out. I'm
surprised at how stable it is. This is really top heavy but if I shake it it is pretty sturdy.
I thought being so top heavy it would have a lot of stress on this part but it seems
really solid. It's heavier than I would like but that's ok it doesn't really weigh too
much. I'm surprised that the arms are actually posable. If I grab this I can put it totally
horizontal and it does not collapse. I really thought that the weight of an arm this extended
would cause it to fall forward or down. I also put this off center because I knew it
would be front heavy when the arms are out. We still have to do some work on the eyes.
I'm not happy with this.

I shined an iPhone through it and it's too washed out in the
dark. I'l have to print this out darker or mess around with that a bit more. I am going
to put a speaker inside. So it can play sounds. Anyway it worked out good enough. One thing:
this is about 1/8" thick washer in there, that is too big. I don't want to see That
big of a gap. I'll probably put a thiner washer in there. But al in all, it's good enough.
I'm happy enough with it. Leave your comments on what you think about this what might I do better or different?
Or suggestions. To use this as a puppet will be difficult because
you will have to use strings or motors or some sort of servos or something like that.
That will take a lot more time than I have in this video. Lets wrap this up. I'll read
some viewer mails. We will end the giveaway from last video probably in the next video.
We won't do it this time.

So I'll go grab the mail. Alright really quickly before we
go we'll do some viewer mails and if you want to send me one you can send it to also if you click 'Chanel' and 'About' in YouTube you are going to find my email there.
Just put 'viewer mail' in the subject line that way it is easier for me to find and you
can send photo or whatever you want that way. This first comment is from Louis Sutter who
has a better way to drill a hole in a bomb.

If you remember in the bomb video I put it
in my lap and drilled. I know it's not safe to do that but the hard part is stabilizing
a sphere when you drill it. He suggests using a baseball bat doughnut. Thats a really good
suggestion. I think we are gong to go back and make another bomb. For some reason there
has been a lot of views on that video. I don't know why but if you look at the view statistics
it spikes for some reason. It's been out for a while but for some reason a lot of people
are watching that one. We are going to make it again and make it a lot easier this time
so you wont have to use a lathe.

He says: "Seriously, I found it pretty funny you using
your lap as a bench, then 10 seconds later you go all PSA with the safety message." Here is another one and this one is from Skilar Babcock and he sent some images and he wants to know when we are going to make the scabbards
for the master sword. Yes, Skilar we will do that. It looks like he rendered the Skyward

He did that himself. So good job on that. Yeah we will make one in the future.
Hopefully sooner than later. And here is a really long email. Let me skim through this
really quick. This one is from Venger Voldur. He is commenting on the Hylian Shield video
and he says "A little late to the party, but this was an incredible build. The result was
phenomenal, and I enjoyed watching the entire process. I'd like to mention some specifics
that I liked and didn't like." So he lists some pros and cons and we will read just a
few of them here. He liked the finished result and the way the
handles were attached on the back. He thinks it a better method than the first way I thought
of doing it.

The cons: "The way you spray paint drives
me nuts! This is a personal thing, really. But I've learned to make sweeping passes with
spray paint, and you sort of point and shoot. Obviously it works for you, as you had a great
finish, so this really doesn't matter as a Con." and then he suggests using acrylics.
I think we will get into more acrylics. I don't pride myself on painting in fact I hate
painting. I love building but when it comes to the paint part it is not as fun for me.
Probably because I am not that good at it. We will take some of your suggestions on the
acrylics and try that. Acrylics are nice because they are water based and
they are a lot more forgiving. He suggests using a clear coat on the acrylics. I am not sure how that works
because isn't Clear Coat and oil base and the acrylics are water? Somebody comment on
that and let me know if you need a special clear coat for acrylic paint verses just spray
paint. Again, what I would do on this build is I would have probably spray painted a Satin
Black first and then taped it off and then finished with a Gloss Black spray paint.

what I did: Gloss / Masked / and then a Satin clear coat. I wouldn't do that because if
you spray a satin first it has more texture and it will have a better bite for the clear
gloss to go on. Does that make sense? That is what I would do differently. By the way
he says "I was pleased to see that the "things you would do differently" part of the video
were on trivial things." I think we already covered what I would do differently on this.
Thanks for the comment that was a nice one.

Quickly just a few photos here. This one is
from Ian Foster and you can see he made his sword and shield and they came out really
nice but he also mounted it on a frame and it looks like, you see these brass clips at
the bottom of the sword? It looks like you can take the off and on which is nice. It's
not permanently stuck. I think that is a really good idea. It came out nice. I think we should
try something like that because right now I have this sword and shield just kicking
around the basement.

It gets moved around a lot and pretty soon it is going to get damaged
if I keep doing that. I think in a future video I will make a wall mount for the shields
and swords. Thanks for sending that in Ian. The next one is from Benjamin Greenberg. Check
it out he make his own kendamas. That is really cool. Thanks for sending these in Benjamin. He has a couple versions and the second one looks like it has a bit of a Halloween theme.
That came out really nice thanks Benjamin for sending those in it's really nice to see
what you guys are also making. That is going to do it for this video. Thank you for subscribing
and all the support. All the likes and the views it's really cool. We will finish this
up later we'll do some more videos in the future. Subscribe if you haven't and I'll
see you next time. Bye!.

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