My Top 4 Table Saw Jigs & Accessories: How to Make Them

I have used my nightstand pretty much every single day It is perhaps the most useful tool in the workshop But perhaps the most dangerous, too I did not do anything Maintenance on mines for some time So I thought I'd rather play around with that And I thought I'd take a long time to make a video I will make some attachments for the saw But first and most importantly I will spend a few minutes showing how to set up my saw And how to operate it accurately and safely The first thing to do is Ensure that the aperture is miter gauge And the blade is parallel to each other To check take a plus square And place the face on the edge From a miter gauge aperture And set it like this Only one corner of it touches one of the teeth Because the blade will not be completely flat Then some of these teeth will not be involved Like these they are here Until you find one That only touches like this one there Then we use that and take it back So that one's breath is just touching One by no So that it was the same as here This means that they must be parallel Or very close to it And close enough for me This indicates that he did not move From the last time you set it If they are not parallel they are easy to adjust You need to twist the upper part to the correct position There is a bolt on every corner Which you can undo from underneath Undo those And a click of a hammer At what angle you need To put it correctly Then tie it up, try again It may take several times It would be a bit of trial and error But it's something that really needs to be done And it's worth taking the time to get it right Next I'm going to check the fence And make sure this is in parallel Ith a miter scale aperture We can do that again with a plus square But I'm going to make a simple dance This works very well It only uses a piece of scrap wedge I set up the fence so that it touches the end of the gun But it is not so tight that it cannot move Then slide the jig along the fence And if it does not slip This means that the fence is outside the square And it needs tuning And if he does slide along the other end And there is a gap Between the end of the dowel and the fence Then he needs to adjust the other direction And in my case there is a gap there So the fence needs to be set in this way I love the dance because you can see it Quite clearly the gap And you can see that it is closed And you move it along the fence But you can also hear that Where it connects And it's touching the fence There are two platforms on the fence They run along that rail here Both are adjustable So by adjusting it either inside or outside Whichever road you need to go We can have a fence To the exact position we need Your fence might be different But there must be a way to modify it With mine I was doing it with Allen Key So I have a choice either Leave this one for a bit Or I can put this one in a bit So I will try this method first And let it only just a touch o We'll try that first And we see how close this is Another thing you need to do It is to make sure that this hole here stays clean If any sawdust gets between the cushion and the rail Then it will not seat properly Your fence will be outside This sounds very good I am happy with that There is one more thing to check though Before we make any accessories We need to check that the fence is square To the table And in my case here, it's very little The top of the fence needs to go this way a little There is an adjustable pillow Just like the others down here And if you tighten this one up this side This side will lift up The fence will take more So it just needs ever adjusting quite a bit And then check little more Now that he saw the saw I can start making accessories The first thing I will do It is a new removable clearance insert The old one is a little worn out now It was a bit flimsy in the middle Because I made this out of wood floors So this is going to be a little thicker I'm going to use hardwood I am going to use black wattle The reason for using the zero clearance insert It is supporting the job Down to the cutting edge Which will make the cleaner cut It also makes cutting thinner slices safer Because it is less likely They will find their way And get wedged between the insert and the blade Before I turn the ends I'm going to cut this slot into the insert And the reason I'm doing it now Even with the blade fully retracted into the table saw It is still very high To put this insert in there And lift the blade I could try and carve it down a little Or put a smaller blade in there But my little blades are thinner So it really won't work So instead, I'll pay it Make this cut itself as it did on this one here Then glue it in a piece after that And it's a very safe way to do this The reason I do that About before it ends You've got the end of the box to pay Against my pusher So let's do that And I put two magnets on the end here This will stop the job in the right place To stop the cut When I made the last one I am stuck on the original insert And I use that as a template With a pattern a little follows in the router And I got the final look The problem with that Is it a little loose there It is the same as the original Also this So on this one I'm going to Just sneak on these lines Where you wandered And get him to be really nice nice fit Before I actually go any further Will mark and drill a finger hole So I can get it again I'll take screws from the old one And reuse When I made this one I had to grind the tip of the screw off So it is not sticking through the top of the insert Although, this insert is a little thicker She would have done the same I got in front of myself there I need to sand and finish it Before I put the screws in I finish it with a water-based varnish I put three coats on And I sanded between the coats Now I adjust the screws And testing until I get an insert To sit flush with the table top It's a bit of trial and error But it does not take long This is a big improvement He's been meant to do that for a while The last thing I would like to mention before moving on It is a collapsing knife Make sure you have this setting So it is aligned with the blade And if you don't have a rip knife on your table saw Then you must really have a traitor And you can make one of those And put it in the insert If you are not sure which rowing knives are When you're making your cuts Tension in wood It can close up the incision in the back It can pinch the teeth at the back of the blade Then the whole workpiece Can be thrown towards you It can really be very dangerous But by having a gripping knife or traitorous And keep this notch away And it stopped happening The next thing to make The sticks must be pushed I've got a bunch of them here And they began to erode So I'll do some more When it starts to wear out There is a lot of depth there To refute that bottom edge And keep using it Like this one here I've actually cut that off a few times But now this is ready for the scrap bin Let's refute that bottom edge I'll do it on a table saw I will use this stick To ride against the fence Now that one like new I will make a couple more to add it to it I can draw one of the old push sticks To repeat it But I made a template In case anyone wanted to make the same So I thought I should probably use this here And I'll put a link to the template in the description Be sure to make it from plywood Because that would have the best strength Especially when moving to the handle The last thing you want Is the surprising handle When your hand is anywhere near the spinning blade I am using half inch chips here But I also make them out of 3/4 inch chips too The handle should be comfortable So it's worth rounding off All edges are smoothed Most of you have probably noticed I used two push sticks On a table he saw So I might as well make one of this kind as well As well as being alert and alert in the table saw The main thing is to achieve safety It is having adequate control over your workpiece You can use a push stick like this one alone But this is not a good idea When you pay your workpiece through It is shared on the teeth in the back There is nothing downward pressure on the workpiece You have no control It can be turned over again Much better option It is to use a push stick Like this one here We have downward pressure all the way This holds on him And you get full control So is the downward pressure on the job It also needs to be pushed from the side You can do this with your fingers As you push the workpiece through But the way I like to do it This is why I have a second push stick Can I use this one to push it onto the fence It also helps keep it so Then with the other push stick You can pay it through There they work very well together Once you've done this for a while Become second nature It is very comfortable And you get great control The last thing to mention When you're making your cuts Do not stand directly behind your workpiece If that kick back This will go straight to you This will do some damage So instead just stand by I know this is clear But we are you, safety glasses Every time you cut On the table he saw And the other option To hold your workpiece against the fence It is the use of a feather plate That puts even pressure On the side of the workpiece And hold it against the fence This is one less thing you need to worry about This one here wasn't particularly good Because it fit in one place And the tightness as I put it down She is moving So I'm going to make a new one And improve it I am using a piece of pine nuts But you can use pretty much anything As long as it contains a fairly straight grain To cut fingers Lift the blade as high as you can Then set the fence 1/8 of an inch away from the blade After all cut Move the fence a quarter of an inch Leave 1/8 inch fingers If you are happier to stop the saw Between each cut To set the fence Then you should definitely do this I am not anxious here As I move the fence away from the blade I am being careful I realize what I am doing And for the last cut Because this last finger is a bit thick I lowered the blade And I'll cross the path along the board I think this is the fastest The easiest way To lock a runner In a miter scale aperture And use it Set the fence where it needs to be Push the feather plate firmly And evenly against the job Tighten it up And that's pretty much all there is The only other thing to consider It is a feather plate It should be in front of the blade Do not put any pressure on the side of the blade Because of the flex in those fingers And the angle of them We can push the workpiece through fairly conveniently But there is resistance if we try to pull it off It will come if you try hard enough But this resistance will help prevent bribery I am excited to advertise That is my second carpentry tutorial "Build a small table" Now live inside Mob Maker And because it is Black Friday selling Cyber ​​Monday You can now get almost zero cost for you For $ 0.99 you can have an entire month Each pass reaches the mob makers Where you will not only learn from my education But you can also take an additional 50 woodworking lessons One of the top makers of YouTube Like Jimmy Dresta Samurai Carpenter Liam Hoffman And Frank Howarth Who now have all the projects live within the Mob Maker So if you are watching this Before Monday at midnight Then this offer is still available To see new projects Released every Friday Live inside your account Simply click on the link in the description below We'll see you there on Mob Maker Another task that needs to be done safely On the table he saw Tear off thin strips The way I usually do it It is by setting a blade Slightly higher than the workpiece Then I sacrifice a push stick for this reason They all get chewed a little But you can still reuse it for this task And as long as you've got good control Then it is very safe to do this way An other way And the last thing I will do It is a jig to tear off thin strips I was going to make a new one Then I realized That I can use the other end of the featherboard So it will have two uses By changing the position on one of the screws We can put the shuttlecock on The opposite is true We can adjust that So there is a thin gap Between the end of it And blade It is set in front of the blade again And then when it is switched off We can put our work against that Laying the fence against the workpiece Make our cut The thin strip will be on this side of the blade It is safer Of his being a sandwich Between the blade and the fence Here I add a micro adjustment screw So even after locking the jig in position You can still adjust it at the end Without opening it again The video was a little different than usual But some of those things I needed to get done I thought it was a worthwhile video We hope there is something useful for you If nothing new Then at least it was a rejuvenation This is not a bad thing When using the table saw regularly Anyway we hope you enjoy the video If you do please like and subscribe thanks for watching I will see you in the next stage

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