Mobile Wood Storage Cart That’s EASY on the Wallet



today we're building an inexpensive compact wood 
cart from two by fours and one sheet.. Oh hold up two by fours? i thought you said this thing's gonna 
be inexpensive Rodriguez? Chuck I get it man lumber prices are crazy right now Hey you're telling me, last week they made me fill out a credit application just to go down the dang lumber aisle. i know man that's what we're gonna save people some money and build it out just a sheet of plywood and eight two by fours oh look at you man of the people huh? times are tough and i gotta clean up this mess somehow hey it looks like you need all the help you can get man well maybe if somebody else worked around here I'm kind of busy man let's build something awesome as expensive as two by fours are these days they can still be pretty gnarly pieces of wood so save yourself some 
trouble and buy the straightest ones that you can find at the big box store even then they're still 
gonna have some bows to them so i picked the worst   ones to use for the base after in cutting 
each board to get a square reference end and   do not be fooled into thinking that they are 
square from the factory i cut a couple boards   for the length of the base and this friends is 
why i upgraded to a miter station from my old   mobile miter stand now i can easily do end cuts 
on eight foot boards from either side then i move   the stop block in and i cut four cross braces 
that'll connect those longer boards for the base   i'm sizing my wood rack to be six feet long and 
wide enough to hold four or five sheets of plywood   on one side longer boards in the middle in plywood 
offcuts or mid-range boards on the other side   my current plywood storage is to lean it 
against my live stand which i never use   and i've got narrow boards short off cuts 
and plywood leftovers strewn across the   shop in different places so this rack is going to 
replace all of those and really tidy up the shop   and after drilling the pocket 
holes i can move on to assembly   probably easiest for you to assemble on the floor 
and you can find a flat spot in your garage i know   this area is kind of the flattest in my garage 
before you start assembling go ahead and check   your boards and put it so that the bow in the 
middle of it is down against the floor and that   way when we assemble it and flip it over then 
it's going to be bowed up and it's going to help   resist that weight so that will kind of flex and 
straighten out versus already have a bow to it   and get worse over time i laid out the frame and i 
used a clamp at the end to butt everything flushed   together and i screwed them in place with two and 
a half inch pocket screws and when attaching the   other end i made sure that i pressed everything 
down against the floor because the bow and the   boards is going to want to raise up those long 
ones higher than the short boards the interior   braces add strength but they'll also be used to 
attach the inner a-frames which we'll be making   later so i used some spacers to position the brace 
and then i pulled out my little used foot clamp   i must have been all hopped up on diet dew 
as i'm more of a clamp it tight kind of guy   and apparently i felt like i was getting a 
little too crazy so i went back to the clamp   for the other brace we'll just be using one sheet 
of three-quarter inch plywood for this build   like i said and this is radiata pine it's a good 
alternative to say something like a baltic birch   which i typically use this is a lot less expensive 
and also it'll hold screws well because it's got   nice thick plies to it i'm gonna cut the plywood 
on the floor and i often get asked what is this   pink stuff on the floor that i'm cutting on top 
of this is rigid foam insulation it's very light   but it's nice and stable it's one inch thick and 
it supports the cut and the wood so that when i'm   going through it it doesn't fall off after the 
cut i cut the sheet to length to match the base   and i'm also going to get all of the cross braces 
for the a-frames from this long section later   now i need to cut the plywood to width for the 
base so i have put the extension on my track   saw so i can go ahead and cut that if you don't 
have a track saw these things are awesome they   make cuts a lot more accurate and easy and you 
can get this specific one the correct track saw   from woodcraft they have great stores all across 
america and over 70 metropolitan cities but if   there's not one local to you you can check out 
their website i've got a link down below in the   description where you can check out all the stuff 
i'm using in today's project and a big thank you   to woodcraft for sponsoring today's video now of 
course working on the ground is fine when needed   but scratch your head every once in a while and 
make sure you really need to be there ah yes this   is much better i put the plywood panel on the 
frame and at this point my engineer kicked in   and i started precisely laying out the screws 
to hold it down don't ask me why i do this   just enjoy the precision and rapid screw install 
before it's all for naught in about three minutes   the top of the lumber rack is gonna be out of 
two by fours and i'm gonna make those in an   a-frame style with a three-degree tilt in on them 
i looked at a ton of different lumber rack designs   out there and a lot of them use sheet goods but if 
you use sheet that's on top you're going to have   two full sheets just on making those side frames 
so using the two by fours is going to help us   reduce the total amount of material that we need 
and when the price of two by fours goes back down   this lumber rack will be even cheaper to build 
i set the saw for a three degree miter so that   i could cut the boards on edge you could also 
use the bevel setting on your miter saw and cut   them flat but i hate using the bevel feature 
i don't know why i hate that either i just do   the cart has four sets of the a-frames and i cut 
all the tall sides first and the stop block worked   great for these and i got two sides per 2×4 
now if the legs of the a-frame i'm going to   go ahead and cut the connector pieces that go in 
the middle i'm going to start with the top one   and that one is very small so i'm going to use 
this little 10 inch spacer and i'm going to keep   my hands very far away from the blade so make sure 
when you're cutting those small pieces don't get   the urge to put your hand in there keep it away 
either clamp it or do what i'm going to do which   is going to hold the board on the other side and 
then let the saw stop before i remove the piece   the connectors have opposite angles on each side 
so that they'll fit in between those two side   pieces so after each cut i flipped the board over 
before i made the next one this saves wood also   and it lets you get a lot more out of the 2×4 all 
right so i've had a little bit of a development   i laid out the a-frame and i started to 
assemble it just to see how it would look   it's just too narrow on that top and i want a 
little bit more room so i'm actually going to   adjust it by about an inch and increase that top 
size sometimes when you draw things on a computer   and then when you see them in real life there's 
a little bit of a difference but the beauty is is   that you don't have to do that because i make the 
plans for you which i will be adjusting to meet   these new dimensions if you want the plans that 
are available for this there's a link down below   in the description for you to check out as i jump 
back to the saw to make the next cuts i forgot   to let the blade stop and here's what can happen 
without support on the wood the spinning teeth can   grab the block and just send it flying so don't 
do that now for the next set of the connectors   the block was long enough that i could clamp it 
to the fence during the cut this is a way better   way to go and it prevents a game of find the 
wood block after you blast it off of your saw i   cut the rest of the connectors for the a-frames to 
finish off all the parts so that i could assemble   all right fast forward i actually put one of 
these together and this is just not what i was   looking for there's just not enough storage here 
and also the three degrees is just a little bit   too tall and i want to make sure that they 
don't fall over or anything so i'm going to   redesign it at 5 degrees widen this up and i'm 
actually going to make the base wider as well   so don't be scared if you're in the middle of 
a project and you think it's not going well   you can always change direction yep i had to 
remove all those rigorously spaced screws that i   just laid out and expand the base for the new size 
i think it was just a sign that i need to just   let that precision thing go or maybe it's just 
today's version of mistakes were made now breeze   through this portion since you've seen me do 
this song and dance already but i was able to   reuse almost all the wood from the base and the 
frames but the only parts i couldn't use again   were the two smallest connectors they'll make good 
door stops or something but after patching the   plywood panel onto the new base i set my saw to 
five degrees and i remade all the a-frame pieces   with the new dimensions and then i could jump 
into assembly i grabbed a pair of the sides for   an a-frame and i clamped them together then 
i laid out where each connector wrong would   fall on both sides for a good visual cue when 
i'm putting in each rung now these are a little   bit odd to try and put a clamp on them and screw 
them together so i put my hand clamp to work here   now of course the hand clamp is only so strong 
so i drilled pilot holes first before driving   in a two and a half inch screw and this takes 
a little bit more time but it's going to make   sure that those connectors are in the right place 
that you need them now attaching the other side   is a lot easier since you can clamp everything 
together and do several of the pilot holes at once   all right and this size feels a lot better i feel 
like i'm going to be able to definitely fit some   more wood in here and also the angle on this guy 
is going to be more comfortable and make sure that   that wood is not falling off so i'm going to 
go ahead and make the other three and then we   can get them onto the platform let's just rinse 
and repeat again here but it's a good idea to   check the assemblies against each other as you're 
making them to make sure that things are lining up   correctly at one point i'd mark the last rung an 
inch too low but it quickly stood out when i set   it next to the other ones unfortunately i didn't 
catch everything i've got the four a-frames here   and i'm going to connect those with plywood after 
i get them on the base but i forgot to put pocket   holes on the base because that's how i'm going to 
attach them so if you're going to build one make   sure that you drill the pocket holes beforehand 
and not after it's assembled because it'll be   a lot easier before putting the a-frames on i 
attached the casters that i'll be using i have   these industrial casters that were from another 
project and they're rated at 325 pounds apiece   so i'm just going to be using four here if you're 
using regular duty casters you'll probably want to   go with another pair in the middle because this 
thing fully loaded is going to be really heavy   then i flip the base over and i use my 
combination square to mark reference lines   so they'd be exactly the same space from the edge 
i started with one end and then i put the frame   flush with the short edge and i secured it to 
the base with two and a half inch pocket screws   then i could use the same spacers that i used 
from assembling the base to locate the next frame   this puts it right over the bracing 
that i did use for that base frame   and will make a really solid connection i went to 
the other end and i repeated the same process and   had everything in place and now is also a good 
time to check your assemblies for some wonkiness   so we all know that two by fours are notorious 
for having some twists and turns to them so i   used my six foot level and if you have any kind 
of long straight edge you could do this to check   to make sure everything is in the same plane 
this back one was actually out a little bit so   i'm going to loosen it up and pull it flush 
but you can use this on both sides to make   sure that everything is in the right plane 
before you move to the next step and start   putting the plywood strips on and next i needed 
some plywood strips ripped at five degree angles   now since the two by four frames are giving all of 
the support and the structure to the lumber rack   we don't need full sheets of plywood on the 
sides these strips of ply will let the large   sheets just slide along the rack and keep the 
other wood from falling as it's laying against it   i've got all my strips here and they have the 
five degree bevel so that when i put it up against   the sides here it's going to match that angle and 
have a flat top so there will be one strip across   the top which will allow me to put some quarter 
inch plywood and make this a full shelf and i'll   be able to do the same thing lower down i clamped 
a scrap of plywood to the rungs to position the   strips on the same plane and it worked really well 
also using quick clamps as a third hand is great   for holding up those long strips while you're 
working on the other end of them i only used   one screw per a-frame and i made sure to check 
behind each strip so i wasn't hitting the screws   that were holding the rungs in and to keep any 
material from sliding off the edge of the cart   i ripped two strips from the last section of the 
plywood i attached these up about one inch off   the base using yet another scrap piece to help 
with alignment and this is why i don't throw   out scraps i'm always grabbing them for stuff 
like this and they just all seem so precious now you could leave the middle wrongs open but 
i have a lot of smaller offcuts that i want to   put in here so i'm going to be using a sheet of 
luan and yes this stuff is still pretty cheap to   cover up those openings i used a full-size strip 
for the top of the cart and i'll probably put my   most used items up here like spacers shims and the 
such and i attached the luan with some me nails   now for the interior shelves i cut the sheet 
into three strips for each level then i could   mark where the frame landed and cut out notches 
so that it would go around it and slide into place   now this worked out great for the second and third 
shelf but for that fourth shelf the plywood just   got too wide and i couldn't wedge them in there 
so i just clipped the entire corners enough for   it to pass by the frames and then they could 
slide right in and for one more custom feature   i decided to dedicate a small space to some 
vertical storage i cut some of that leftover   plywood to rough size first and i also cut the 
outer supports then i took the large piece to my   bench and i laid out a line to match the lean back 
of the uprights and then i could fit the opening   at the bottom as well the kreg track saw is 
great for cutting angles on small parts like this   after that first cut i could use that piece to 
mark the second piece that i wanted to cut and   have an exact match easy peasy i drilled pocket 
holes on the bottom and angled sides and then i   attached them to the cart and i put that first 
side flush with the end after both sides were   on there i pre-drilled the supports and i screwed 
them on to the front these will keep any of those   skinny parts from falling forward i cut two 
dividers and i attached them to the upper and   middle support to segment that bay into two parts 
this little stand-up bin right here would be great   for things like dowels or any other little things 
that i want to just have all contain right here   but you could also go all the way down and have 
the vertical storage all the way across but i tend   to have more sheet goods so having full sheets 
on the back and sheets on this side is going   to work for me and also in general if you need a 
smaller footprint you could do a four foot version   as well which would work great and you've probably 
noticed it but we've got new merch mistakes   were made t-shirts linked down below in the 
description if you want to grab one for yourself   and now came the fun part loading this bad boy 
up i grabbed the large sheets of plywood that   were leaning on the lathe stand first now the mdf 
isn't full width but it is still eight feet long   and it does fit nicely on the cart with a 
foot overhang on each end now the wood i was   storing vertically here it got swallowed up by the 
interior shelves of the new cart and i was taking   all the short offcuts from this rickety rack 
and trying to find the best spot for everything   i'm probably going to be rearranging these 
after i use it some to see where things fit best   but i definitely sent some of those smaller 
pieces to the s'mores pile now this sucker holds   a ton of wood and it's going to make way for the 
redesign that i've been looking for in my shop but   apparently chuck has other plans for it oh man 
i've always wanted to ride one of these things   if you have plans to build your own wood cart 
i've got a link down below in the description   where you can pick those up i've also got 
some videos queued up for you right here   for some more shop organization and i want 
to give big thank you to all those folks   that are joining the builders club thank you 
so much i'll catch you guys on the next video

pexels photo 7520734

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