Welcome to make something with
me David Picciuto, but you don't. And today we're going to
make this entryway table to
place to put your keys and stuff. As you come inside the house. And we're only going to use
two power tools for this, a circular saw and a hand drill. Check it. So today's video is going to be really
fun and interesting for a couple of reasons.
One is Minwax
sent this challenge box, which contains some of their new finishes. That's going to allow us to be
really creative with this project. And I put the limitation on myself
to only use two power tools, a circular saw, and a hand
drill all of the products, all of the materials you
could get at a Lowe's. So this is a project anybody can
do with any amount of experience. Let me show you what is in this box. Just like I used to do as a kid before
Christmas, I've already peaked inside. I already know it's in here, but
let me show you check this out.
They did their research
and they know that I love Wiener dogs. They sent me some
wiener dog lights, check this out. How freaking cool is that? Look,
we've got winter dog lights. We've got all kinds of brushes. We've
got a water bottle, soft touch wax, grain highlighting wax in
here is a gift card to Lowe's to go purchase some materials. So
we got all the brushes that we need. We got the winter dog lights. Now we need to take that Lowe's gift
card that they sent me and on their dime, go pick up some materials. And some of
their cool stains here is the really, really cool thing that I am excited about. You can get a base stain and have it
tinted at the paint counter to any one of these colors. That means we get to be really
creative with this project. We had them tint up some yellow,
some orange, some red stain, and then you can buy their black stain.
And I'm going to use those four colors
for the top to create this retro seventies vibe that I'm going for. The beautiful thing about red Oak is it
accepts stains and dyes better than most woods. So this is going to work
very well for this project. I got four of these one and a half inch
by one and a half inch boards that we're going to use for the four legs.
And then I also got two of these one
and a half inch by three quarter inch boards that we're going
to use for the stretchers. That is all we need to make
the base. The table top, I've got some five and
a half inch wide boards. We're going to worry about the top later. The top is going to accept
all the colorful colors
that we're going to use the color of this table. How
many times can I say color? What makes this project so easy? Is all the red Oak has already
surfaced on all four sides. It's already sanded smooth. All we have to do is cross cut and
use some creative joinery to attach everything together. And that is why anybody can make this
project with some simple tools and not a lot of experience.
start chopping up some wood. So I have all four posts clamped together
so I can cut them all at the same time. So they're all
the exact same length. I'm going to use the circular saw
and the speed square as a guide. So I can cut nice and straight. So now that we have our four legs cut, it is time to cut the four short
stretchers out of this one and a half by three quarter inch red Oak.
They need to be eight inches long. I've cut them roughly to nine inches. They're an inch oversize
that way I can clamp them all together and do one final pass
on there because this is so small, I had to clamp my
speed square in there, but this was going to work out great. I released the clamp here and now all of
our four short stretchers are the exact same size.
I'm going to do the exact same
thing with the three long stretchers, cut them, oversize, clamp them all together and do one final
pass to get them all the exact same length. So now we are going to
assemble the two ends first. So the top of the table is facing you. This end is going to
be flush with the ends. And then the bottom stretchers are
going to be four inches up from the bottom. I do want all of
these centered on here. So I need to bring this up three eights
of an inch. I have three pieces of one, eight inch plywood that I
can set on my bench here.
I can lay this on top of that, and that's going to space it
perfectly in the middle of the legs. If you don't have plywood, if you don't
have anything, three it's a inch thick, use a deck of cards,
use whatever you have. So now we're going to add a little
bit of wood glue to the end, grain, not much just a little bit.
Any wood glue will work. We'll just clamp that together, but you do want to make sure on the
top that that is nice and flush. And so now I'm just doing the same thing
with this other end, clamping it up, let them sit and dry for about an
hour or so. So once the glue is dry, remove the clamps, put the clamps back on, but out of the way of the joint, and then go ahead and mark where your
stretchers are on the opposite end. So we know where to drill the dowels . The dowels are going to go right
in the middle of that stretcher, but slightly below center. It's going to go slightly below center
because when we put on the long rails, it's going to go slightly above center.
And then they won't crossbit We are going
to drill in two and a half inches deep with a five 16th inch drill bit. I've got a piece of tape on my
drill bed at two and a half inches. It'll let me know when to stop
and we're going to drill right. In here. Nice and slow and check to
make sure you're drilling straight. You're probably wondering how old was
this held up with all these clamps on there.
And I have these cutoffs
that are just sitting on my bench. And then this is sitting
on top of those cutoffs. I'm just going to take a flush trim
saw and cut a two and a half inch long, five sixteenths, red Oak dowel.
So once you have that dowel, we're going to throw some glue in there
and you're going to take a mallet. If you have one, a hammer
we'll do, and just tap that in.
Don't wack it. Just nice, easy taps. We don't want to break these
joints that aren't strong yet. If you really smack at it, and this is going to mushroom out and
it's not going to go all the way through. And since this is red oak, I guarantee you glue is going to squeeze
out the pores. So have a wet rag. Ready. Yeah. That's got a different
sound. It's bottoming out.
And the doll is mushrooming.
Now take care of that glue
squeeze out right away. You don't want to let that dry cause
it's going to be really hard to clean later. Once you have
that glue cleaned out, you can take your flush trim
saw and cut that off. This, the teeth don't stick out the sides. And so it can rub right up against the
surface without marring the surface too much. A little bit. And there you go. That's one.
Now we got to do. The one on the other side. Once you've drilled and doweled,
the four joints on the side, the legs do the same thing on the other
set, and we should have our two sides. Assembly's ready to go. And now
we can attach the long stretchers. This can be a little bit tricky. If you are new to woodworking,
you might not have many clamps. If you plan on doing more woodworking, I suggest that you go and get a
couple of long clamps just for this. Don't be surprised at the cost of clamps. There are alternative ways of doing this. One way would be to clamp this to my bench here with a smaller clamp, and then clamp this over here to my bench again, with the smaller clamp. And then
from here, we could drill our hole, put in our dowel. The only problem with this is we're not
going to get side pressure and it's not going to pull the pieces together
so it could get a little sloppy.
Another way is to take a ratcheting clamp, wrap it around the bottom here,
and then ratchet it together. That also gets a little bit tricky, but
you got to use what you have. Today, I've got some woodworking clamps, and
I'm going to go ahead and use them. You can never have enough
woodworkers telling you. You can never have
enough clamps. True fact. I'm going to put some glue on here
and then clamp this together and start drilling and putting in the
Just like before, except this time, the dowels are going to go slightly
above center instead of slightly below center. So the dowels don't cross. So the base is done. Of course, we could get a couple of
pieces, glue them together And make the top, but let's
get a little bit creative. Let's have the green go this way. So we'll cut a bunch of shorter pieces
and then connect them and then attacht the top.
Today, have been cross cuts
using the speed square. And six of these makes
the perfect size top for this table. Now we could attach those
and then call it a day. I'm going to get a little bit more fancy. And since I'm going to stay in each
one of these, a different color, I want to play with the
widths a little bit. So I'm going to clamp a straight edge
onto some of these boards and do a rip because these boards are smaller. You might find it tricky to get your
straight edge to clamp to the board. If you don't have the right clamps, you could always use double-sided
tape to tape down your straight edge, run your cut. And then you can pry that off and
clean up the tape and woodworking. There are many ways to
do nearly everything. Before we stain. This would conditioner.
allow the Oak to take the stain evenly. And this is a pretty simple
process. You just brush it on you, let it sit for a minute or two, you wipe off any excess and then
let it dry for like 15 minutes. And then you are ready for
staining. This is all water-based. I don't need to condition my hands.
So I'm going to put on some gloves. Once that conditioner dries, they give it a very light sanding because
that water-based pre-stain raises the grain just a little bit. I have the four things that I tend
to do at the paint counter at Lowe's. And then I even tried it out on four
pieces to make sure that this is what I want, and this is exactly what I
want. This is going to be really cool. These things that you can get tinted, you can get semi-transparent
or you can get the solid color. I chose the semi-transparent cause I
still want these pieces to look like wood, just colorized. This is all water-based. And the great thing about water based
is it dries fast and has a very low odor.
This piece is going to be black. And so I'm just going to
take a lint-free cloth and just wipe it right on there. You do want to wipe off any excess. Ooh, look at that. They've done the whole project red. You can come back and do a
second coat once it dries. If you want it to be a
little bit more vivid. I got my clamps back out and we're
going to glue everything together and this should be pretty darn level.
And so now that we've
got that glue in there, we can tighten up our clamps and let that
sit for a couple hours and dry for the base. I also want to
play with some colors. So I got the Minwax wood
effects and color wash. And I played around with
some scrap pieces here. This is the weathered gray, which
looks cool. This is the whitewash. I really like the way this looks,
but not for this particular project. This one is the barnwood brown. And
that definitely looks like barnwood. And then this one is the weathered look. And that definitely looks
like weather barn wood. But what I am going to go
with is the charcoal look. So this has a burnt look. This is a little bit different than
the black that we used on the tabletop. And the reason I'm going with the charcoal
for the base is I want the base to be dark.
And I want your
attention to be drawn to the top, the top of the table I want to be
the focus with all the cool colors. If you're wondering, how is this different than
paint is this is really, really thin. So there is,
there are no brush strokes. It's soaks into the wood and becomes
part of the wood where paint kind of sits on top. Plus, this is, this is more of an effect than a
coating. So it becomes part of the wood. It soaks in and gives it that
burnt charcoal look to it. Now to protect this, I'm using
some wipe on poly your thing, and I'm using the satin because I
don't want a shiny finish on the base.
And so now that the glue has dried, I can wipe on some polyurethane. Polyurethane typically
has, an amber hue to it. And that warm hue is going to bring
out the warm colors that I have on this. So that's why I chose the oil-based
polyurethane to attach the top to the base. I'm going to use
these desktop fasteners. Basically you take a drill bit,
the size of this circle right here, and you drill down the thickness of
this piece and then this gets screwed onto there. And then from underneath, you can screw in the top to the base. The cool thing about these desktop
fasteners is it allows for expansion and contraction. Our top is solid wood. So it's going to expand and
contract throughout the seasons. So once you screw that in there, it's allowed to pivot and
place to allow that movement.
This is looking so good. I'm so happy with the
way this is coming out. I've got one last thing that I want to do, and I want to add some
of this soft touch wax. This does add a little bit of protection, but mostly I like the
way wax feels on wood. So we're just going to wipe this on. You let it sit for like 10 minutes
and then you buff it out all by hand. The purpose of this video is to show
you that you don't need a shop full of tools. The only two power tools we used today
was the circular saw and the hand drill.
I really loved the way this top came
out. It's colorful, it's bright. I love the way it looks. And I wanted to show you that you can
get creative with Minwax's wood effects and their stains. All of the products that are used in
this video will be linked down below. And I have a PDF of the
drawing of this table. So you can get the measurements
for that and make your own. And if you do make this, please tag me
in your Instagram or Twitter photos. I would love to see what
you do with this. All right. That is going to wrap it up. We'll see you next week with another
project as always be safe, have fun, stay passionate and make
something. Get a shot of his butt. He's got a butt highligher..