Flip Top Tool Stand with NEW Features | DIY Shop Storage

Welcome back. I'm Brad from Fix This Build That and today We're me building a flip-top tool station that holds two tools in one small footprint Now this is my second flip top and it's got some new features on the locking hardware to make it even easier to use And the entire cart can be made from just one sheet of 3/4 inch plywood and a small piece of quarter-inch for the drawer bottom I rip the parts to size for my cut list anything you want the plans with the cut list parts diagrams and step-by-step instructions I'll have a link below in the description Now the secret sauce of the cart is the metal tube that runs through the top in out both sides Now this supports the tools and lets them spin freely. I made a drilling guide on the drill Press to help me keep everything square and true. When I drill these holes for the steel tube by hand into the sides. I Sandwich the two sides together so that I could drill through them at the same time and keep the holes aligned in theory after marking the center of the sides I used the drill guide to position the holes and matched up with the marks that I laid out so I went ahead and started up I Tried to keep the drill bit as vertical as possible and follow the guide But that's where theory and implementation departed my garage floor slopes and as I kept the drill bit vertical I actually drilled a slanted hole a badly slanted a hole So yes, I had perfectly aligned sides which were horribly slanted So I ended up fixing this by flipping each piece over and the rebuilding from the other side using that position guide So the moral the story here is don't double stack your sides because it's just gonna double any error that you have And next I needed to make the slots for the locking hardware on the sides on the previous build I did this with a router and a straight bit but this time I decided to use a small Forstner bit to establish the ends of the slots and then remove the rest with a Jig saw now either way, it works fine.

It just depends upon what tools you have on hand You can also use a simple handsaw to make these cuts as well and if the slots aren't perfect, they can always be cleaned up with a file or some sandpaper the Base of the cart has a small drawer in it that sits between the bottom and the lower shelf I draw a pocket holes in the Aysen shelf to connect them to the sides Then I cut a small strip of wood to fill on the back of the drawer opening in droid pocket holes in it to connect It to the sides as well With my base parts ready to go I started assembly if you have a narrow bench like me than a piece of MDF on top of it gives you that extra little working surface that you might need to fit some clamps like I did here I Clamped the sides and the bottom together and I attached them with pocket screws along both sides Then I flipped the base up right to attach the lower shelf.

I used that back piece for the drawer box and another strip that had ripped to the same size as spacers to hold the shelf in place After clamping the sides firmly to the Shelf. I attached it with pocket screws from the inside as well Now I'm not gonna lie. It's a tight fit to do pocket screws and a little opening this size But I channeled my inner eighth grade self trying to pry that stuck bag of Funyuns out of the vending machine and I made it Work I never did get those Funyuns though After that I pulled the back piece out and I put it in flush on the back of the shelf I attached it to the sides using the pocket holes that I drilled earlier And then I put a couple screws in through the Shelf to finish it off Next up I started to make the lower drawer, but since you've probably seen me do this a lot Let me go ahead and answer a frequently asked question while I'm doing it Many people ask about the stability of the stands since it's just a sheet of plywood and those sides are kind of tall Now this was one of my concerns as well with the original design when I first saw flip top My design was inspired by a flip top that I saw from Woodsmith magazines, June 97 issue.

Yes 1997 when I was a spry sophomore at the University of Tennessee With a bad hair dye job Now that design had no drawer and even taller sides but by adding a drawer to the mix It really stabilized the stand dramatically and I've never had any issues with it After making the drawer and stapling a quarter inch plywood bottom. I mounted it in the drawer opening using full extension drawer slides I'm doing an inset drawer front So I set the drawer slides back the thickness of the plywood that I'll be using for the front And with the outside portions of the slides in place I install the sliding arms and then put the drawer in I Used a small scrap of quarter-inch plywood to hold the drawer off the bottom and I attached it to the slides in response per side And next I cut the drawer front to size Making it a quarter inch smaller in width and height than the opening and this is going to give me an eighth inch reveal around the entire front after install With an inset drawer, it's hard to get the right reveal spacing and clamp it in place So I used a trick.

You've probably seen me used in some other videos I drilled the drawer handle holes first along with some mounting holes into the drawer box Then I used a small stack of hotel key cars to space the drawer front evenly in these plastic key cards actually Hold up a lot better than playing cards, which I've used in the past. I attached the front to the drawer box Through those handle holes to hold it in place and then I promptly had no way to open that drawer, but no worries I just turned my drill into a key like a good MacGyver does and then I was in and Hey If you like retro shows and woodworking go ahead and get subscribed if you aren't already that's two MacGyver references back to back videos, baby after attaching the drawer pole I moved this stay into the floor and I flipped it over to attaching the casters you Can use longer screws here when they're going to be going in to the sides or the back But make sure to use the smaller 5/8 of an inch screw when you're going only in to that bottom sheet of three-quarter plot The flipping top is two sheets of plywood with some bracing for the locking hardware and steel tubes sandwiched in between them Now the front and back bracing pieces have a slot cut in them at the end of each piece to hold an eyebolt so I whipped up a quick tenoning jig to make the slot cuts on my table saw I Have a little jig that I used to cut splines and the picture frames that straddles my fence.

I just flipped it around So I could use the other side for this one Using a scrap piece of ply screwed to the sides for some extra height I temporarily glued a tall backer board at a right angle to the top of the jig That's all I needed for a quick and dirty setup and you can make on your own really fast Next I laid out the slot that I wanted to cut in the bracing And then I raised up the blade I clamped the part to my jig and I lined up the blade with that outside mark that I just made on the piece.

I Made one pass and then I flipped the part around and made another pass this establishes the width of the slot But it also leaves a little bit of wood in between that I'm going to need to remove in just a minute. I repeated the cuts to make the slots in the other end as well as the other board – after that I Adjusted the fence a little bit to take away that remaining portion in the middle of each slot and I ran all of them through At this setting now this is gonna give the eyeballed a place to nest and rotate for that locking hardware. I Laid one of the plywood pieces on my bench to start assembling the top and the steel tube runs down the middle So I laid out a three-quarter inch gap in the middle of the plywood And I set one of those inner braces right on the side of it. I Countersunk and screwed the piece down and then I laid the tube down along it so I could position the next piece to secure it in place And this will be a tight fit for that steel tube and be just what I need after that I could attach the front and back braces that we just cut the slots into I Flushed up the braces along the edges not just countersunk and screwed them in place as well The outer bracing is finished up by filling in some short pieces between all those boards that we just installed To make sure that everything is solid along the edges Now my previous build I cut more one by two pieces and I line them up exactly where my tool mounting holes were Instead of using one by twos.


I just cut some plywood scraps to fill in the openings I Brad nailed them in place since they're just gonna be sandwiched in there and they're gonna cover a much larger area So I'll be able to put some different tools with different mounting locations And next up you can just attach the other side to the top But spend a little extra time here making sure everything is lined up square and flush and buy a little extra time I mean no less than five minutes I mean unless you're some like wild fly by the seat of your pants person who only checks for square one time But like who would do that? The eye bolts that lock the top are held in place with three bolts I drilled a hole about a half inch deep at each corner to accept the bolt nut and the washers for the setup After drilling the partial holes I needed to drill a hole through the center with a 3/8 of an inch bit but I learned my lesson from the other debacle and instead of drilling straight through both sides at once I Drilled until I hit the slot at each corner Then I flipped the top over and drilled through from the other side and out the first hole this gave me straight holes And before attaching the top to the base I rounded over all the corners of the exposed edges with my router then I sanded the rotating sides at the top to make sure everything was flush and smooth and Finally I finished up by applying some water-based polyurethane to all the parts for some protection before assembly Now putting the top on the base is a lot easier with a locking hardware installed.

So here's a look at how that works The eyeball is captured by a bolt a couple washers and a nut that's gonna hold it all tight together. I install those bolts lock them all in place with my ratchet and wrench and then I put on fender washers and a knob on the end of each I bolt Now I could easily put the top on the base using the locking hardware Give me an extra set of hands when I put it in those slots This also lines at the top for an easy install of that steel tube I push the tube through even with my errant holes in the side it fit right in Now I wanted about 3/8 of an inch of the tubes sticking out of each side So I flushed the tube up on one side and then I marked a thickness of the piece of plywood on the other side So then I could just cut it to size with a receptor and a metal blade to get that right sizing But without it clamped it was like trying to sawzall jello, and I was just flying everywhere So I put a vise clamp on the tube and then clamp that clamp to the side and that worked like a charm I'm digging this hole clamp a clamp technique that I've been using a few times lately.

I Made two plywood cat blocks to cover the exposed steel ends This also gives the tube a little bit of extra support for when it's spinning around But to really lock the steel in place and make it one piece with the top I drilled some holes through the top and into the steel tube Then I counter suck the top of the holes and drove a screw through both parts on both ends Now we've got a flipping flip top But I wanted to make some improvements to the locking hardware to really make this one a little bit easier to use than my previous build now There were two nuisances with the locking hardware First the fender washers floated around and had to be moved outwards sometimes to reengage the locks in Second when flipping the top the bolts would sometimes flop out and catch on the sides now neither were major issues, but just annoying So to fix the fender washer issue I decided to integrate the washer in the knob into one part I Filed down the knobs to get a flat surface to connect the washer and I scuffed up the fender washers and I epoxy them on Right to the knob now.

Just be careful not to get any epoxy in the threads here After clamping it and letting it cure overnight. It worked perfectly no more floating washers to worry about and it's all one piece Now the idea for fixing the second issue didn't come to me until I had mounted the tools Let's take a quick look at the planer from jet that's gonna be going on the top. It's their new 13-inch bench top planer It's got a 2 horsepower motor a two-speed gearbox and a segmented head with 24 high speed steel inserts And I used it extensively in the last video where I built a coffee table from rough walnut lumber It's performed great so far and I'm looking forward to using it for many more projects.

I'll have a link in the description Where you can find out more about it and thanks to jet for sponsoring this video As the jet planer doesn't have onboard cord storage like my last planer did So I used a two and a half inch pocket screw a small section of quarter inch tubing in a quarter inch fender washer to make a set of couple cord wrap posts You can also make some little l-shaped wood scraps and get the same thing anything just to have a little spot to wrap your cord around I flip the top over and I put my next new addition on the other side and this is the Craig Foreman pocket whole machine and I am pumped to put this thing to use to but as I flip the stand over Did you notice me pushing that bowl back in? That's exactly when the idea hit me for the second fix. I Grab some small neodymium magnets for the job and these were about 5/16 inch round 1/8 of an inch thick I drilled a recess for the magnets right next to that slot for the I bolt then I scuffed up the magnets and I use some more epoxy to set them in the wood and These magnets are really small But it was just enough to keep the bolts in place when flipping the top over and I'll never have to worry about that again Now these two hardware upgrades are easy retrofit So if you've already made a flip-top you can put them into place and if you've not made one yet It's a great addition to save shop space and I think you're gonna enjoy it Hey, if you want some other shop storage projects.

I got a playlist queued up for you right there They can really make your shop look great until next time guys get out there and build something awesome.

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