DIY Desk with Drawers | How to Make



What's up guys I'm Brad Rodriguez from Fix This Build That and today I'm gonna show you how to make a DIY desk with drawers I'll also show you how to make some eye-catching details like Cove molding tapered legs and a chamfered hardwood top stay tuned I'll show you just how I did it I recently made a desk with wireless charging for myself and my daughter's been begging for a desk for her ever since and of course I'm putty in my daughter's hands. So I had to oblige. I started off making the sides for the desk The sides have a plywood panel held between a pair of two by two legs first.

I cut the plywood to size And then I added pocket holes to the edges of the panels with my k4 jig from Kreg the sponsor of today's video Next I cut the legs de size for the desk Using a stop block with a miter saw is a great way to get repeatable cuts Using layout marks to keep the legs in order. I marked the bottom of the legs for a small taper the taper will be on the inside of the two faces of each leg to Cut the tapers, I used a simple jig, it's just half-inch plywood with a miter slot runner and some clamps I just line up the cut marks on the edge to make the taper, but keep an eye on which taper you cut first So just always think about that second cut before you're making the first one after clamping down the leg and making the first cut I flipped it over and took the second pass for the other face.

It gives a great-looking detail that makes the desk look custom I finished up the tapers on all the other legs using my layout lines for guidance Back at the bench I use the reference lines I've made to reorder the legs You can see how the tapers all face inward here. I really love this feature Next up I moved on to assembling the side panels. I laid out two legs making sure the tapers were oriented correctly Then I used two small three quarter-inch scraps to pop up the panel even with the inside edge of the legs The panel is attached to the legs using a small bead of glue and one and a quarter inch pocket screws The outer sides have a faux frame and panel look I cut a top and bottom trim piece from a 1 by 2 to fit between the legs Then I attach them with glue and Brad nails And for a nice finished look I used some cove molding around the inside of the panel to fit the molding I'd cut a miter on one end of the trim then take it to the panel and mark for the second cut I continued this approach all the way around the panel until everything fit in snugly.

I Have plans available for this build with a full cut list parts diagram and step-by-step instructions Check the link down below in the description. If you want to build your own desk I secured the molding in place with glue and pin nails then I came back and filled all the nail holes with wood putty the Inside of the right side will be hidden in the drawer box but the left side can be seen under the desk in the seating area to Prep for painting and hide the pocket holes.

I glued small sections of wood dowels into the holes I tapped the dowels in with a hammer and then after the glue had dried I cut them flush with a pull of saw this is a pretty satisfying process by the way a Full size plywood back and a front stretcher connect the sides together I cut the back to length on my table saw sled then I drill pocket holes on the edges for attaching it to the legs The front stretcher is cut to the same length and also given pocket holes for assembly To make the assembly easier I turn the sides upside down on my bench I clamp the back in place and attached it with pocket screws Then I flip the desk on its back and attach the front stretcher and as a side note here You always want to use pocket holes going into the thick part of the mating piece not towards the edge That's why I flip the desk around versus adding the stretcher when it was upside down.

You can rewind to see what I'm talking about The desk has two large drawers on the right side I cut the parts for the box that will hold the drawers for my sheet of plywood and left them a little bit long now The edges of the plywood box will be seen on the front of the desk So to clean them up I cut some solid wood edge banding from a piece of one by four After it goes on the solid wood will take the paint much better than a raw plywood edge and really be seamless I cut the strip's long and then I use glue to attach the edge banding It's held in place to dry with painters tape, but you can also use Brad nails here and then fill the holes later After the glue dried I cut the long strips flush with my pull saw The edge banding stands a little proud of the undersized plywood so I sanded it flush Then I took the panels to the desk and mark the exact size I needed and cut them to the proper length on the table saw The vertical panel needs a notch for the front stretcher I used a 1 by 2 to lay out the notch and mark for the cut and This cut can be made with a bandsaw like I used or with a jigsaw or handsaw Either way the cut face will be rough afterwards and can be cleaned up with a chisel.

I assemble the two panels together first then attach them to the desk now The most important thing to keep track of here is making sure everything is square I attach the panels to the side first and then to the top stretcher So this establishes the squareness of the front of the box. Then I work my way around the rest of the box securing it in place The last thing needed for the desk base was a couple of dividers to set the opening for the narrow drawer above the seat area and wanted to split the large drawer box into Now these are pretty simple and just cut to size to fit the openings and attach with pocket screws And hey if you're new here and you like what you're seeing be sure to subscribe and say hello down in the comments With the base frame finished I wanted to start getting some paint on it so it could dry while I was working on the other parts I'm using a semi-gloss white enamel and applying it with an HVLP sprayer I prefer to use a sprayer for pieces like this that just have a lot of nooks and crannies in them The spring goes way faster than brushing it on too, which is a big plus I did three coats and all sanding between each one And while the paint was drying I moved on to making the top we considered using a painted white top But I really wanted the beauty of natural wood and using a hard wood like this cherry will stand up much better to the bumps And bruises than a soft wood like pine.

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I started with rough lumber and I took it through the milling process to get dimension boards for my top glue up If you don't have all these fancy machines, and don't worry about it You can have wood dimension to your specs or buy it already cut to size at a variety of lumber dealers both brick-and-mortar and online With all the board's dimension to size but left a little long I glued up the top I used a good amount of wood glue to get a solid connection Then I clamped it within inch of its life cuz you know what they say mo clamps mo, betta Now I could move on to the last part of the desk the drawers I have a whole video on my favorite way for making drawers Not go into a ton of detail over there in that video if you need some extra help But one thing that I've been using lately, that's not in that video. Are these new corner clamps from Kreg They're pretty cool since you can clamp a corner without having to span all the way over to the other side and clamp the whole box and There's a little cutout for the screw so you can get full clamping power and still have access to put the screw in I'll have a link to these below in the description and all the other Kreg products.

I used in the build After the top loop had said overnight I took it out of the clamps I knocked down the glue joints and got rid of any excess glue Then I started finish sanding Drawing pencil lines on your boards is a great way to know when you're ready for the next grit Once the lines are gone, you know, you're good to go Before doing my final sanding I cut the top besides I use the Kreg Accu-cut track in my cordless saw to make a cut on both sides For some more detail on the piece I put a chamfer on the underside of the front and the sides at the top. I use my compact router and I made multiple passes with a chamfer bit to get the size that I wanted a Cheery has a tendency to burn really easily So I came back and cleaned up the chamfer with a block plane in a scraper before finally hitting it with some fine sandpaper After a final sanding, I applied a coat of oil-based polyurethane I ended up doing three coats in total two with stay in the wrath of a six year old girl and her art projects and How about that cherry!? It looks amazing With the top and the base done.

I just needed to trim out and install the doors I applied veneer edge banding to the tops of the drawers to give them a little cleaner Look this type has a hot-melt glue and you can apply it with a clothes iron Just make sure your husband or wife doesn't see you using it or buy one from Goodwill like I did The glue dries quickly and you can trim the excess banding off with a chisel or a razor blade and it really is a much Nicer look than that raw plywood Each drawer will also get an inset false drawer front.

I cut the Front's from a 1 by 4 The larger drawers are twice as tall as the narrow ones. So I glued two boards together to fit that opening I'm using full extension drawer slides for the desk and the slides need to be set back 3/4 An inch since the drawers are inset with the false front I used a scrap piece of one by four to position the slides and a spacer to hold them off the bottom Each slide is pre-drilled and attached with screws to the sides.

I couldn't use spacers for the narrow drawer So I use the Kreg drawer slide jig to position and hold the slides. It's perfect for this situation Before installing the drawers. I used a biscuit joiner to cut slots in the sides back in front I'm using these little hardware called Z clips to attach the top to the desk and the clips just fit in the slots and then They get screwed into the top and this allows for seasonal wood movement when the top expands and contracts To install the bottom drawer onto the slides I used a piece of quarter-inch plywood to raise it off the drawer bottom then I pulled the drawer and slides out and Attach them to the box For the other two drawers, I just measured where I wanted to slides to hit on the drawer Then I drew a line across the side of the box I pre-drilled and attached the slides on the line making sure they were flush with the flood now both of these methods work great and either of them is fine I'm using a new method though to mount the false drawer fronts on my desk I saw my buddy mark the Wood Whisperer do this and I loved it I drilled two holes in the front of each drawer a few inches from the side Then I drilled the holes for the drawer Hardware on the false drawer fronts Now I positioned the drawer fronts using my favorite playing card spacing method and I put screws through the drawer pull holes into the drawer Box, so this holds the false drawer front perfectly and now you can secure it from the inside through the holes that you drilled earlier Then all you do is remove those screws that are in the drawer pull Hardware Drill all the way through and put your drawer pulls on now.

This is just easy-peasy you don't have to worry about clamping the drawer fronts in place and worrying about them moving while you're trying to finagle in there to attach them This desk has just enough details to set it apart in this cherry hardwood top is so gorgeous and my daughter's going to enjoy this Desk for a long time to come and of course now both my boys want their own desk too.

So more to come If you want to see more videos, I've got another one queued up for you right there if you want plans for the build They're available down below if you're not subscribed to the channel already I'd love to have you as part of the team and until next time guys get out there and build something awesome.

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