Custom Cutting Board from Scrap Wood | How to Make

Hey I'm Brad from Fix This Build That
and today I'm going to show you how to make a custom cutting board from scrap
off cuts and leftover wood I'm also going to show you an important step that
most people leave out I started with a piece of walnuts about 12 feet long and
two and three quarters of an inch wide I got this from a local mill workshop for
free because it was an off cut from their milling operations the first thing
I did was figure out how much I could get out of the board and how much I
needed to work around the big knots that were in the piece so I marked out where
the knots were keeping in mind how the grain was flowing since this is an edge
grain board having straight grain lines on these edges will make for a more
seamless look on the top when it's assembled I make most of my cutting
boards around 16 inches long so I set up my miter saw stand and adjusted to stop
blocks at 16 and a half inches it's worked out perfect cuz I was able to get
three full cuts from the board before the knot and I trimmed off the naughty
part don't need that after that I got three more full cuts from the rest of
the board for a total of six parts these boards had one flat side from the mill
workshop but the rest was rough I ran the board's through my planer flipping
them over after each pass and lowering that cutter head until I had a smooth
and parallel surface on both sides the stock I started with was about an inch
thick and after the surfacing I was down closer to the round 7/8 for the board's
were right at about 2 and 3/4 of an inch thick and then the other two were from
the ends they had a slight taper on them making them shorter on one side I set
the table saw fence to just under an inch and a quarter and I cut each of the
full width pieces into two parts since I'm making an edge grain board the width
of these pieces will be the thickness of my finish cutting board if you want a
thicker board then just go ahead and cut these a bit wider I would have liked to
really been around an inch and a half thick but you got to work with what you
got when you're using scraps but the Maine walnut pieces ready I switched
over to the accent wood I grabbed a rough cut piece of maple I planed it's
smooth on both sides I ripped it on the table saw to the same width there's a
lot of pieces and then I turn it on edge and split it into two center pieces I
did the same thing with one of the walnut pieces that I cut earlier and
these will be the accent strips that flank the yellow parts on the finish
board speaking of the yellow heart here's a little scrap board I started
with a guy gave me this off cut when I bought
tool from an office Craigslist since I have so little of it I didn't want to
split it on the table saw because you're losing H of an inch there just to the
sawdust from the blade curve so instead I cut to the size I needed on my bandsaw
I'll be able to use this other piece here and another cutting board later I
wanted the two walnut in the two maple pieces to be a quarter inch thick in the
yellow heart to be a half inch thick when I'm finished there were slightly
larger than this as I cut them if I use the planer to get them down to the final
sizes with all the boards cut and prepped I moved over to the layout I
ended up with nine walnut boards and the maple and yellow heart accent strikes I
arranged the accents on one side and then I moved over a piece of the walnut
to complete the look next I looked over all the boards and I
decided what the best show side would be for each piece there's a little bit of
SAP wood and some defects here and there let's lift those over to the bottom so
you wouldn't see them now it's time for the glue up I use parallel clamps but
you can use inexpensive bar clamps or even quick clamps here after getting my
supplies I stack the board's together and then I flip each one down so the
face to get the glue is up now I just slather that glue on there and I spread
the glue evenly over all the boards I'm using type on to a water resistant glue
versus type on three a waterproof glue I always get asked why don't you use
waterproof glue and basically I don't think it's needed on tight bonds website
they actually list cutting boards as a recommended use for both of these blues
so if they're cool with it then I'm cool with it with the glue spread I rotate
the pieces back into place and line them up and plant them all together until I
get a good glue squeeze-out you can wait about 30 or 45 minutes and
come back and scrape off the glue squeeze-out at that point but I like
setting a timer and having to come back so I just scrape the excess off with my
glue brush and then I wipe the whole thing down with a wet paper towel I let
the glue dry overnight and then I take the boards out of the clamps there's
usually a little bit of dried glue where the clamps were and I knock those pieces
off with a scraper or a putty knife I take one more trip over to the planer to
even out any misalignment from the glue once the board is smooth on both sides
I'm done it only takes a few light passes to get
there you can see the board here is still
almost an inch and a quarter after the whole process so you're really not
taking off a lot next I square up the end of each board on the table saw using
my crosscut sled and I cut it to final length which here ended up being a
smidge under 16 inches next up is the edge treatment in the sanding I use my
down draft sanding table for these steps I made a version specifically to fit the
size of the boards that I build I use the sixteenth of an inch roundover bit
in my handheld router and I start with the end grain and then move on to the
sides if you have a router table this is be much easier but this turn router is
nice and easy to handle before sanding I draw a pencil marks on the face of the
board this lets me know when I've sanded that very top surface away and I'm ready
for the next grit I start with 100 grit and I sand the faces of the board and
then I arrange the board up a little bit higher and I sand the edges right there
on the table as well after a hundred I move up to 150 grit and I'll repeat the
same process now here's an important step especially for these edge grain
boards after 150 grit I spray down the board with water this raises the grain
on the board and it makes it rough to the touch
basically you're making all the severed wood fibers from the milling stand up on
the board wet it down and let it dry if you skip this step the first time that
you wash your new board it's going to feel really rough and if you've gifted
this to your old Aunt Betty she's gonna question your woodworking prowess
don't disappoint Aunt Betty after it dries I sand it to 220 grit then I use
the flexible sanding pad and I smooth it up all the edges making sure everything
has got a nice round to it and everything feels smooth after that I
finish out my hand sanding with 320 and 400 grit paper for that super smooth
finish now this is everybody's favorite part oiling the board this is where this
comes the lights I'm using just 100% mineral oil this is food safe this is
from just any grocery store or large box store you can get that from soaked as
much as you can on there I'm going to put it on here show you show you how it
comes to life no narration needed for this part just sit back and watch this
grain depart the final step I'm going to take is to
put on a top coat of beeswax and mineral oil blend I'll have a link down below to
what it is but this basically gives it some extra protection against the water
and well as the beeswax lets you buff it to a nice Sheen the wax is set up I'm
just going to buff this out with a dry shop towel and this is going to look
beautiful there's links down below to all the
items I use today as well as a detailed blog post if you like what you saw go
ahead and subscribe you can do that right here or below as well if you hit
that Bell it will turn on notifications and you'll know every time I post a new
video until next time guys get out there and build something awesome

pexels photo 3449662

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