Building Modern Plant Stands | Speaker Stands | Woodworking Project

(containers knocking) – Times three, carry the nine. Aha! (soft music) We have a lot of plants, and finding a spot for
them can be difficult. In today's build, let's build
a more elegant solution. Let me start off by saying
that these stands can be used for much more than just plants. They can be used for speaker
stands, award pedestals, and pretty much any other display. The name of the game here
(machine roaring) is optimizing space.
(machine roaring) So once I milled my boards down, I cut them to their final
width at the table saw. For narrow cuts like this,
I like using a feather board to hold my pieces flat against the fence. This also helps to avoid
getting any kickback from the saw blade. With my tenon pieces cut, I moved onto the tops and
bottoms of the stands. I am using a combination
of maple and walnut to give the exposed tenons
some contrast for this build. (machine roaring) Once I had all my pieces ripped down, I swapped out my ripping
blade for my cross-cut blade for the remainder of the cuts. (soft music) Then I set up a stop
block on my cross-cut sled and sliced out my chunks for the three different stand shapes.

I'm making a circle, octagon, and a square shape with two rounded sides. And if you'd like the
plans for this project with full-scale templates, you can find them in the
link in the description. (machine roaring) You may notice these pieces
have a few deep knots, but I think those give
the pieces some character, and I will address those with
some epoxy and black dye. (machine roaring) (images popping) So once all the pieces were cut, I used some Total Boat epoxy with a fast hardener to fill in the voids. I added two drops of black dye to the mix to darken the appearance of the epoxy. (soft music) While the epoxy cured,
I made a few templates to help set up and shape my final pieces. I like to do this for most of my projects, and it really does remove
a lot of the guesswork. I used spray adhesive to
attach the paper template to my plywood and rough cut
the curves out at the bandsaw.

If you don't have a bandsaw,
a jigsaw will work just fine. (machine roaring) And if you're enjoying this
video, please give it a like. It helps me to reach
more viewers like you. The final shaping for the template is done at the disk sander, but a sanding block would also work. (machine roaring) With the template finished, I used double stick tape to
attach it to my wood slice. Then at the router table, I used a flush-trim bit
to cut in the curve.

(machine roaring) Do take care when cutting
at the ends of the template as tear-out and kickback can occur. (machine roaring) Once the epoxy was fully
cured, I removed the tuck tape and sanded the epoxy back to
being flush with the face. Make sure that whenever
you are sanding epoxy to use good dust collection and a mask. Epoxy dust is terrible for your lungs, so do your best to minimize it. And if you like plant-related projects, check out my propagation station build linked in the card above. Next, I used a center finder to mark the middle of my workpiece. Then I drilled a small pilot hole to hold the workpiece in place
in my circle cutting jig. (soft music) (machine roaring) Back at the bandsaw, I attached
the workpiece to my jig and cut the circle. You can also use a router jig or jigsaw to achieve the same result. If you use a jigsaw, clean up the circle with a sanding block.

And if you want to see these
projects as they progress, follow me on Instagram
@Timberbiscuitwoodwork. (machine roaring) Next, I started on the octagon. Once I had my template
traced out on the workpiece, I used a miter gauge and a stop
to cut the first two angles. I cut outside my mark on
the remaining two and angles and then slowly snuck up to the line. (machine roaring) I will note here that
you should take your time and try not to lose your
position on the miter gauge. (machine roaring) The underside of a few of my pieces still had a few cracks remaining, so I filled those in using
Starbond's Black CA Glue. (soft music) To cut the through mortises, I installed a dado stack at the table saw. Then using my templates
to set up a stop block, I test cut the template before making the cuts into my workpieces.

pexels photo 4792478

Each of these cuts requires some setup, but once you have the stop block in place, the cuts are pretty straightforward. (machine roaring) With those cuts done, I then marked out the cuts for the circle. If you like this type of content, please consider subscribing. Thank you so much for your support. (soft music) Then the circles were cut in the same way as the other pieces. The main difference was
the height of the cut. I also stuck the two circles together and cut both them in a single pass to ensure the cuts stayed aligned. I next cut the tenon pieces
to their final dimension and used a marking gauge
to set the tenon length. (soft music) I did a few test cuts
then cut the tenons out at the table saw. I cut one side first then
flipped the workpiece and cut the other. This ensures the tenon is
centered on the workpiece.

(machine roaring) I repeated this process on each piece until I reached my desired length, which was just proud of the top and base. For the circle, I turned my pieces so the face was flat against the saw table and followed the same process. (machine roaring) Before I glued the pieces together, I masked off the inner joint to help with any glue squeeze-out. Cleaning these up later could be tricky. (soft music) Then I glued and clamped
the pieces together. (soft music) The exposed tenon material
could then be flushed up with a chisel.

(soft music) To ease the edges around
the top of the faces, I used a rasp. This also adds a nice edge
profile to the finished piece. (rasp rubbing) Then I added my mark. (soft music) To finish the stands, I
used a penetrating oil. This brings out the wood's natural color and adds some protection to the piece. (cloth rustling) If you're looking to
purchase any of the items or tools you've seen in this video, I will have links in the description. Full disclosure, I do get a
few pennies if you do buy, but I would never recommend anything that I don't use myself. (soft music) These stands turned out wonderfully! The exposed tenon joinery really shines as the hero for the piece, and the fun shapes add a ton of character. Plans for this build are
available in the description, and if you liked this build, check out some of my other projects. I make new videos all the time, so if you think I've earned
it, please subscribe.

I'll see you next time. (soft music).

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