Building a modern LEANING Bookshelf w/ Ebonized Oak // How To – Woodworking

I started this project by breaking down the white oak boards I used for the shelves on the bookshelf and I picked up this four quarter white oak from my local lumber dealer Asheville hardware and luckily it was already s 3 S or surfaced on three sides and this meant that I could just cut the boards to rough link to the miter saw join one edge of the jointer and then rip them to width at the table saw and when ripping them I just removed as little material as possible really just enough to be left with a clean edge on both sides of each board after cutting down the shelves I started laying them out to make up the panel sizes I had need for the bookshelves and these shelves get narrower as they go up the bookshelf to match the angled front leg so each panel size was slightly different and out of just sheer luck I was able to match up the pieces with almost no waste usually only about a quarter of an inch of extra width on each shelf next I laid out locations for dominoes which I used for alignment and since these boards were already milled down to about 7/8 of an inch thick I really didn't want to remove much more material when flattening them after the glue up and dominoes were really helpful for this but biscuits or dowels of course would also work as well after cutting in the mortises I could glue up the panels which required just about every clamp I had you really can never have enough clamps and that was because I was going up to 6 of these shelves in total since I was building two of these bookshelves so to help with this I ended up using this tight bond quick and thick wood glue on the first few panels which only required the shelves to stay in the clamps for about 15 minutes and quick and thick also dries clear which is a really nice feature for this kind of panel glue up and this is not sponsored anything I just happen to pick up a bottle of this glue to try out and really liked the way it worked in this application and I'll link to it in the video description if you want to check it out anyway after letting the glue dry I remove the shelves from the clamps and scraped off any glue squeeze-out and I should mention that this shelf had regular Titebond since I ran out of that quick and thick hence the non clear squeeze out after removing them from the clamps I did load the panel's cure overnight and then ran them to the planer the following day to clean them up and having a 20 inch planer is definitely a luxury here as I could run all the shelves through at width and speaking of luxuries I also ran the shells through my drum sander to further clean up the surface and this kind of one-two punch of planer then drum sander can take a board like this from very rough to almost finish ready in just a few minutes and it's definitely a huge boost to my efficiency next I rip some strips from a few of the extra white oak boards and I used these as a back edge for the shelves and not only would these trips help just keep items from sliding off the back of the shelves but they'd also help keep the shelves flat over time so to attach these strips to the edge of the shelves I cut in a rabbet using my dado stack at the table saw which would provide an extremely strong bond between the shelves and the strip finally I could cut the shelves to their final width and length again at the table saw and I rip the shelves to width making sure to account for the differing widths and then pulled out my Rockler crosscut sled to cut the shelves to final length and this crosscut sled really came in handy on this project as you'll see and I'll link to it in the video description if you want to check it out unfortunately I accidentally cut the first shelf half an inch too short which really came back to haunt me later on but we'll get to that a little bit later after getting the shelves cut to their final size I sanded them up to 120 grit prior to gluing the strip's onto the shelves I also went ahead and added a round over to the front edge of the shelf and the top edge of the back strip since it would have been next to impossible to do this after the glue up finally I get the strip's glued onto the shelves and I once again used most of my clamps during this process and I just made sure the strip was aligned with the shelf and then clamped it in place checking it for square after adding the clamps so with that the shelves were pretty much good to go for the time being so I moved on to the lower cabinet which makes up the kind of bottom section of this bookshelf and the goal with these cabinets is to provide an area to store my son's toys in our den which is where these bookshelves will end up and I plan to pick up some plastic totes to fit in these drawers to help keep things organized or definitely set to hope well see if that actually happens in real life anyway I built the cabinet out of red oak plywood since I'd be spraying in black and white oak plywood is much harder to come by and much more expensive and I decided to add some hardwood edge banding to the plywood since I had some scraps leftover that would work really well for this and I used a thin CH thick edge banding on the top and bottom edges of the side panels and I milled the edge banding down at the planer drum sander and bandsaw after cutting the edge banding pieces to rough size I glued it to the edges of the side panels with the help of some Rockler bandy clamps and these things are incredibly effective for hardwood edge banding and I always seem to need more than I already have on hand after the glue dried I trim the ends of the edge banding with a flush trim saw and then flushed up the edges with a trim router spiral bit and this little lip or attachment from fastcap and this is a super inexpensive attachment and allows you to run your trim router on its side making it perfect for flushing up hardwood edge banding like this and this is by far the fastest way I've found to trim hardwood edge banding and it's also the safest for the plywood in my opinion I've tried using a block plane but I always seem to end up digging into the plywood veneer when I get really close to the surface plus a block plane is just much slower than a router after flushing up the edge banding on the top and bottom edge of the side panels I added some thicker 3/4 inch thick edge banding to the front edge once again calling on the banding clamps and I used this thicker edge banding on the front edges of the panel's so that I could add a heavy chamfer to the front edge of the cabinet without exposing the plywood edges and I repeated the same process on the top and bottom cabinet panels and then trimmed them all flush after the glue dried once the edge banding was trimmed flush I came back and sanded the inside faces of the panel just to make sure everything was nice and smooth before cutting the joinery for the cabinet and for the joinery I decided to go with rabbits and I cut them once again using my dado stack at the table saw set the height of the dado stack using some setup bars setting the height to half an inch and I used a sacrificial piece of plywood on the fence so that I could but the blade right up against the fence and the date of sec width was set for 3/4 inch plywood which is actually twenty three thirty-seconds of an inch thick after confirming the fit on a piece of scrap I cut the rabbits into the top and bottom edges of the side panels and I also went ahead and cut a 1/2 inch by half inch rabbet on the back edge of all the cabinet panels to house the cabinet back with all those rabbits cut into the panels I could go ahead and get the cabinet carcasses glued up which went really smoothly and rabbits are pretty much self squaring as long as you cut them square and you just need to make sure to close up any small gaps with some clamps and I plain tend to go overboard when clamping cabinets like this but I did end up with gap three joints after the glue dried I removed the clamps and then flushed up one corner with my lowing of Jack plane and it was just slightly proud and plain made really quick work of it on the second cabinet blew up I decided to try these Rockler corner clamping jigs and they did seem to help keep things aligned a little better than just the parallel clamps probably because the panel alignment was actually referencing off of my assembly table rather than me having to align them manually the last piece for the cabinets was the back panel and I cut these from some of that scrap packing plywood that I've had hanging around and one side of this plywood looks fine and the back of the cabinet will never be seen so I figured why not just use it up I attached the back panel with a few 3/4 inch screws and then the cabinet was done for the time being the next thing to work on was the leg assemblies which run the entire length of the sides of the bookshelf and the entire weight of the bookshelf rides on these leg assemblies so I figured I'd make them from some eight quarter stock just to make sure they were nice and strong I picked up this gorgeous piece of white oak also from Asheville hardware and it was exactly the size I needed for the leg assemblies for the two bookshelves with just enough of an off cut for the eighth inch thick edge banding I cut the board in half of the miter saw jointed one edge and then ripped it into strips at the table saw next I cut the shorter stretcher pieces to size from some of the longer pieces at the my saw before squaring up all the parts and I like to make parts like this as short as possible before squaring them up as I typically end up with straighter pieces this way and I can also remove less material speaking of squaring of the parts next I squared up one face and one edge on the pieces at the jointer and then random through the planer to bring the other faces in the parallel while I'm planing let's talk about the sponsor of this week's video Powermatic the gold standard so as you guys know I've added a bunch of Powermatic tools to my shop over the past few years and they have been total game changers from my woodworking the added power the bandsaw the extra width and gorgeous surface finish from the planer and jointer and the precision of the drum sander just to name a few have been absolutely amazing and I know these tools will ask me for many many years to come so learn more about these machines and the rest of my Powermatic tools check out the links in the description below and thanks to Powermatic for sponsoring this week's video and supporting what I do after milling I cut the pieces to their final length at the miter saw starting with the back legs and since these had two 90-degree ends I could just set up a quick stop block and cut them to length next I set the miter saw to 5 degrees and cut the front legs to length once again setting up a stop block and these front legs have a 5 degree angle on both ends and the angles are cut parallel to each other I also cut the bottom stretcher to lengths off-camera and this piece has one square end and one end with that 5 degree angle to determine the length of the top stretcher I clamped up the leg assembly temporarily and then marked out the links based on the actual size and I could have pulled this dimension from my 3d model but it usually ends up being a lot more accurate to mark the length based on your actual pieces finally I could set up one more stop block based on my mark on the top stretcher and cut all of the top stretchers to length after cutting those top stretchers I 10 per airily clamp the leg assembly together and it looked great nice and square with a subtle tilt to that front leg while the leg assembly was clamped together I marked out locations for Domino's which I used for joinery here that said there are a ton of options for joinery including dowels if you want to use the same type of method I did or half flaps which would have been a little bit more complicated and my buddy Chris alimony from four-eyes built a similar bookshelf a little wild and did use half-laps and I'll link to his video if you want to see that method anyway with the Domino locations marked out I could cut the mortises into the pieces and I ended up using 2 8 millimeter by 50 millimeter dominoes per joint and this made for a super strong leg assembly also I absolutely love my t-track assembly table for projects like this being able to create a quick clamping jig for holding the parts while I cut the dominoes was just so convenient once I've got all the mortises I can glue up the leg structures which went smoothly and I just made sure not to use too much glue just to a point a ton of squeeze out and I also use some of the angled off cuts to help clamp the angled front legs and it's a good idea to always save some of these off cuts when working on angled pieces like this as they can really come in handy alright so remember how I mentioned that I'd cut my shelves half an inch shorter than my cabinet well now I had to come up with a solution for that problem and after thinking about it for a while I figured that cutting a quarter inch deep dado into the leg assemblies would be the easiest way to accomplish this know what also have the added benefit of giving the cabinet's a little bit more support rather than just relying on a few screws to attach them to the legs so first I started by marking out exactly where I needed to cut the dado hood section on the legs just to avoid accidentally cutting them in the wrong spot and I would definitely recommend this especially on something with angles like this next I set up my widest dado stack since I was going to be clearing out a lot of material and then set the fence to the location I needed to start the dado I set the blade height to a quarter of an inch since removing a quarter of an inch on each leg assembly would give me my half inch of total width and with that I could cut in the first dado establishing one end of the larger dado after that I moved the fence to cut the other end of the dado cut it on both pieces and then I could start clearing out the area in between the two dedos this one pretty smoothly except that I didn't support one end of the leg assembly when clearing out the first dado this meant that the leg assembly started to kind of sag as I was cutting and this resulted in a small gap between the leg assembly and the cabinet on this first piece but it pretty much disappeared with the black cabinet against the clear coated oak legs luckily I figured this out on the first leg assembly and was able to use a 1/2 inch strip of plywood as a spacer on the rest of the legs to avoid this and up to this point you've seen me working on two of the four leg assemblies since again I'm building two of these bookshelves and next I needed to work on the other leg assemblies which angle in the opposite direction luckily I could just set the fence on the crosscut sled to match the 5 degree angle on the front legs and cut the dedos using the same technique after cutting the dedos on all the leg assemblies I could clamp them to the cabinets to test the fit and thankfully they fit really well and it was really exciting to start to see the bookshelves coming together with the legs clamped in place on the cabinets I went ahead and marked out locations for screws pre-drilled the holes and then drove in some inch-and-a-quarter screws next I could work on getting the shelves attached to the leg structures and I decided to use pocket holes for this I added three pocket holes on each side of each shelf one at the front leg and two at the back leg with one going through the shelf and one going through the back strip I fit the Shelf temporarily to mark the pocket hole locations and then drilled the pocket holes using my marks to line up the Shelf with the jig after drilling the holes I clamped the Shelf in place use some spacer blocks that cut to set the spacing between the shelves and then used inch-and-a-quarter pocket screws to attach the shelves to the legs and I made sure to use pocket screws with finer threads which are designed for hardwoods to avoid splitting legs and I could have definitely used longer screws but these are honestly plenty strong as is and I just worked my way up the bookshelf using the same 12 and 1/2 inch spacers between each shelf and then repeated the process on the other bookshelf with that the main structure of the bookshelf was so I can move on to making the drawers for the lower cabinet and once again I used my favorite and Blum undermount drawer slides and I have an entire video on making drawers for these types of drawer slides so I won't go into too much detail here the one difference on these drawers versus the drawers I've built for these slides in the past was that I decided to go with a half inch thick drawer bottom rather than quarter inch thick since these drawers are just so big this doesn't really change much on the drawer construction besides needing to cut a wider groove in the drawer box front back and sides to accept the half-inch panel after cutting the grooves on the inside face of the drawer box parts i notched out an area on the backs of the drawers to accept the drawer slides and then I could get the drawer boxes assembled and as usual on these types of drawers I went with smaller pocket holes using the Craig micro drill guide in my pocket hole jig and these smaller pocket holes work much better in half-inch thick material and I definitely recommend them for half inch to row boxes like these eye symbols the drawer boxes with little glue and some 3/4 inch pocket screws making sure to clamp them together to avoid the parts slipping around while I drove in the screws and the nice thing about using screws here is that you can remove the clamps immediately after adding the screws since they provide the clamping pressure while the glue dried next I went ahead and got the drawer fronts cut to size and added the handle cutouts which have become a favorite of mine lately and in case you missed it I made a template for this handle cut out during my dual Murphy bed project and I've used this same template a bunch of times since that project so I centered the template on the drawer fronts trace the outline of the handle cut out and then rough cut it with my jigsaw since these drawer fronts wouldn't fit on the bandsaw next I attached the template to the drawer front with some CA glue and painters tape and then flushed up the handle cutout to the template at the router table using a small spiral flush trim bit to avoid the blowout on the top edge of the handle cutout I tried holding a backer block against the drawer front while I routed and I found that just routing slowly will help prevent pretty much all of that blowout that I was experiencing next I got the bloom slides installed using this Rockler underground drawer slide jig which makes this a super simple process I set the offset on the jig to match the 3/4 inch thick drawer fronts claimed drawer slide and jig in place and then used a self centering drill bit to pre-drill the holes after attaching the slides I drilled the holes for the Blum slides in the drawer boxes using another Rockler jig and then I could attach the clips on the bottom of the drawers and drop the drawer into place and these slides just function beautifully and have a ton of adjustability built in and I definitely recommend them for any kind of higher-end furniture piece next I got the drawer fronts attached and I used a few spacers just to help create an even spacing around the front and then pre-drilled holes from inside the drawer boxes and added a few screws to attach the drawer fronts and with that everything was assembled so I could then disassemble it all and move on to getting everything ready for finishing so I started by chamfering the edges of the cabinets adding a smaller chamfer to the sides and back edges then a heavier chamfer to the front edge with that thicker hardwood edge banding next I could work on the leg assemblies and first I worked on chamfering the edge where I cut that dado too deep on one of the legs and I used my spokeshave for this and the idea was to add a heavy chamfer in the shallower area so that there would be an even shadow line across that entire edge I also decided to add a round over to the leg assemblies and I really should have done this before cutting in the dedos and I didn't think about it at the time but these dados basically made it impossible to use my router table for this which would have been much faster and giving me much better results and any time you add an edge profile like this it means lots of hand sanding to clean up that edge and I think I spent a solid four hours sanding all of these leg assemblies and then the drawer boxes just to give you an idea of how much time this process takes and I'm definitely thankful for some audiobooks during these kind of tasks the last pieces to work on were the drawer fronts and I just added a light chamfer to them to make the handle cutouts a little bit more comfortable on the hand and then I hand sanded those champers off-camera with that I could finally get to spraying on some Finnish and as I mentioned I used a black polyurethane for the cabinets and this is the same finish I used on my home bar project and my live edge bed and I just really loved the finished look it's a one-step finish since it's a tinted ball urethane and it just sprays on really nice and I'll link to it in the video description in case you're interested next I sprayed on a water-based polyurethane on the rest of the parts and luckily I recently picked up a second gun for my HVLP system so that I could dedicate one gun to this black finish and this makes it really easy to swap between the two finishes I applied three coats of finish in total sanding with 320 grit after the second coat with the finish applied all that was left to do was put everything back together first attaching the leg assemblies to the cabinet's then reinstalling the drawers then finally adding the shelves to the legs and with everything put back together I can call this project finished so if you enjoyed this video go ahead and get subscribed and ring that little notification bell so you don't miss any my future project videos and while you're at it why not go ahead and check out this video of mine that YouTube thinks you'll enjoy alright I think that's it so thanks for watching y'all and until next time happy building [Music]

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