Building a DIY Conference Table | Woodworking

the other day my buddy Jason asked me if
I had any interest in building something like this a communal work desk slash
conference table that he found on a site called Open Desk I said sure so let's
get into it the trickiest part of this build is probably gonna be the leg
assemblies so let's start with doves and I'm gonna go over a couple of ways that
you can make these that said I think it'll be easier to explain if I back up
and talk about the design first for a minute so to design this I started off
by measuring out the office in order to determine the best size for the whole
table once I had that I played around with a couple of ideas in terms of the
looks and how we'd actually build it before I settled on this one and the
only special things to know are that for my tools and in order to be more
efficient with materials it's gonna be a lot easier to make the leg assembly
pieces split in half so like this instead of like this okay so in the shop
I started out by making a template out of some quarter-inch plywood here I'm
translating my sketch up drawing into a real-world drawing by referencing the
angles and dimensions a more accurate option might be to print out a full size
template on paper and attach that to the wood but this was easy enough once
everything was looking good I could start cutting and really there are only
two crucial cuts that have to be perfect here this line and this line need to be
perpendicular so by referencing the plywood's factory edge and by using a
large square I could ensure that they were after that I kept working my way through
it with a circular saw and a jigsaw until the shape was roughed out and all
of the other cuts are really just for aesthetics so if you're a little bit off
it's not a big deal the last thing to do to the template
before I could start using it was to round over and refine with a mix of some
power sanding and some hand sanding basically just use whatever you can to
get the shape to look exactly how you want it to and if this is your first
time to my channel welcome and thanks for checking out my stuff go ahead and
hit that subscribe button in notification bell so that you don't miss
any of my future builds thanks okay so that's one way that you can make the
template but another arguably easier way is by using some digital fabrication so
here I'm going to quickly show how I can make a template on my x-carve to do that
I exported an SVG file from my Sketchup drun which I could import in the easel
that's Inventables software that the x-carve runs off of once it was in there
I set up all my parameters and then let it cut and I'll be dead honest if I was
making something like this and not filming it I would definitely do it this
way but whenever possible I like to show alternate ways to do the same thing
since I know that having access to machines like these aren't always
realistic for everyone that said I'm gonna throw a link to the Inventables
website in the description below so if you're interested in learning more or
trying out easel give it a look alright so either way at this point we have our
template and we can start making actual pieces so here I'm tracing the shape
eight times onto a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and the reason that I'm making
eight is because each leg is gonna be an inch and a half thick the other thing to
note here is that I'm not paying attention to grain orientation and
that's because at this point I thought I was gonna paint the whole base
and we might still who knows the next step was to use the template over at the
router table along with a flush trim bit and this is pretty straightforward and
simple but routers are always kind of scary to me so just take your time and
be careful which I guess is good advice with any tool so then I don't know be
extra careful with the router I guess and actually special shout-out to a
couple of careful individuals TJ Brill Jason Wolski Keith CACCI
and the rest of my patreon members for making these videos possible I can't
tell you how important your support is to helping me make these videos but I'm
gonna try it's really really really really really really really really
really really really really important really so if you want to find out more
about how you can support the show too and snag one of these sweet four-eyes
shirts check the patreon link in the description and see if it's right for
you and as always no pressure with all my pieces cut out next I could start
assembling them so in order to attach the two halves I'm going to use a pair
of Domino's once that was done I left them to cure
overnight and then the next morning I could laminate them together so that I
was left with two finished leg assemblies and then I can move on to the
aprons and the stretcher pieces for those I'm actually going to start by
cross cutting a piece of plywood to the finished length of the stretcher pieces
that way as I rip things out they'll end up their finished dimensions and I don't
have to individually crosscut multiple pieces so while I'm ripping a bunch of
strips let's cut to an animation to give you a better idea of what I'm doing at
this point all we have are our two legs sub assemblies to tie those together
we're gonna need a total of nine apron pieces four of them are going to be
three inches wide and we'll laminate them together to form beams that are
three by one and a half by 78 inches two of them are gonna rip to about four and
a half inches wide and these will get refined in a bit to match the angles of
the ends of the leg pieces and you'll see that in a minute
two more we're gonna cut to six inches wide along with one that's six and a
half inches wide and these are gonna form a hollow box beam thing that runs
down the center of the table for support and to hide all the cables here I'm cutting the affer mentioned
aprons to match the leg end angles so I started with a 45 degree cut held it up
to the leg marked it out and then I could make my second cut and now I'm
actually gonna shut up for a second and take care of the rest of what we just
talked about along with a little pre sanding on some of the areas that are
gonna be hard to get to later okay I'm back so here I'm doing this
sort of mock assembly I'm just getting things attached making sure that it's
all gonna work out and so forth before I refine anything to do that I'm gonna
screw the leg assemblies to some scrap pieces at their finished distance apart
and then I can go about attaching everything and once I was certain that
it was all looking good I took it apart headed over to the router table and
rounded over any of the pieces that might possibly get touched now here I'm doing the actual assembly
and this is gonna be a lot easier and faster since everything is pre-drilled
at this point and I'm not using any glue here because this could potentially need
to be taken apart and moved and honestly it's plenty strong with just screws I
should also mention this design could easily be turned into a dining table as
well basically just make the top out of one piece instead of three pieces and
speaking of that let's get to work on the top now so here I'm pretty much
doing the same thing that I did with the aprons by cross-cutting the entire sheet
to what's gonna be the finish to length of seven feet 10 inches long but rather
than doing it on my table saw I'm using a track saw and this is actually the
Craig ACS that you saw me use a couple videos back only instead of using the
track on the table I've detached it and I'm using it like a traditional track
saw system once that was done I headed over to the
table saw to start ripping things so here I'm cutting my pieces in half and
then doing the little dance and while I rip my pieces – they're finished widths
of three inches and 19 and a half inches let's take a second to thank Squarespace
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thanks Squarespace next I took a piece of scrap and marked
it out to be the same height as the I guess we'll call it Electronics trough
then I use my circular saw and a square to cut them to size and glue them in and
this is gonna provide support for the center cover piece so at this point all
my pieces are cut and the table could be finished but I want to add in some extra
little cable management niceties so let's work on those in the shot I'm
ripping a piece of scrap walnut to one inch thick then I marked out some hole
locations and went over to the drill press where I could drill a small pilot
hole followed by a larger quarter inch diameter hole and what I'm aiming to do
at this point is create two pieces that look like this alternately you could use
something like the x-carve to get to this point as well so I'm gonna show
both ways so to do it on the x-carve I'm going to open up easel and draw out the
shape and then carve it I guess there's not really much more to
explain than that but in any case no matter how you get to that point next
I'm gonna use my bandsaw to make a cut right down the center of the piece
splitting the holes into two half circles and then over at the table saw I
can set my fence and make sure that the pieces are identical thicknesses pick
knife whatever plural for that is then after a bit of sanding and rounding
over the sharp edges on the router table it was back over to the table saw to cut
the large piece into smaller individual pieces next I set up the drill press
with a Forstner bit and mortise some shallow holes into either end of each
block and these are just the right size to hold a pair of magnets back around
the table I traced out the shape of my cable holders transfer the locations of
the magnets and installed more so that the cable holders would work and here's
a little preview of them honestly they might be kind of unnecessary but I
figured it could help to prevent phone chargers and that sort of thing from
accidentally falling into the electronics trough after that I drilled
out some larger holes in the bottom of the electronics trough for the cables of
the surge protectors to exit and plug into an outlet after I got the top
attached I mortise thin a few more magnets to hold the center cover in
place and this isn't really very strong but it really doesn't need to be it just
gives us sort of positive stop for when you remove it and replace the cover so
that you know it's in the right place next I put a chamfer on the underside of
the top and a small radius on the top edge and I probably should have removed
these to do this rather than holding the router upside down but it worked
next time though I'll remove it and do it the normal way then it was on the
sanding finishing and delivering this guy to the office so they could start
using it so what do you guys think about the
table it makes the office seem a lot bigger I really do love the aesthetics
yes the woods really nice at the workmanship slim jakey alright thanks for watching and I'll see
you in the next one you


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