(soft sigh) – I have a better idea. (gentle music) (soft tap) Told you. I needed somewhere to put my coffee, so I built this C-table, and today I want to
show you how to make it. This table isn't the
most complex build ever. In fact, you could really make
it with a jigsaw, table saw, some dowels or pocket
screws, sandpaper, and glue. That said, I did spend
some time on the details like side profile, edges, and
joinery to fancy things up.
So once I had my boards milled
down to the final thickness, I cut them down to their final width. (saw buzzing) For this process, I set the fence with and don't touch it again
until all of my similar pieces are ripped down to avoid any errors. (saw buzzing) I like using a cross-cut
sled for repetitive slices, because it allows me to set a stop and quickly repeat the cuts.
If you would like detailed
plans for this project, they are available for purchase at the link in the description below. (light popping) With all of my pieces cut out, I started on the tapers
for the top and bottom. To do this, I marked out a template to set up the sled for the table saw. Then I screwed in some plywood pieces to hold my boards in place.
I built two sleds in total, one for the top and one or the base. Holding my sled flush against the fence in my same initial cut
setting, I made the cuts. I was very mindful about
my finger placement when making these cuts, and if you're not comfortable
holding the piece down, you can screw in a few hold down clamps. (saw buzzing) (gentle music) Then over at the bandsaw, I roughed out the vertical leg pieces.
If you don't have a bandsaw,
you can use a jigsaw. (saw buzzing) (gentle music) At the router table. I used a template I made earlier to finish the vertical leg pieces. I left these pieces long to this point to avoid any tear out
from the flush-trim bit. You could also do this
with a handheld router. Let me know in the comments
which you prefer for templates. (machine whirring) (gentle music) Next, I marked out the miter cuts for the top and bottom of the legs. (gentle music) Then I swapped the ripping
blade for a cross-cut blade. If you're enjoying this
video, please give it a like. It helps me to reach
more viewers like you. Using a miter gauge, I cut
the miters into the leg. I made sure to take light
passes and snuck up to my line. (machine whirring) (gentle music) Next, I marked out the
placement for my dominos.
Now, I know not everyone has a domino, so for these joints,
you can also use dowels. (gentle music) With everything marked out,
I plunged the mortises. (gentle music) (machine whirring) If you like this type of joint, you should check out my bookcase build linked in the card above. It really complements this piece and dives deep into using the domino. (machine whirring) (gentle music) With all of the mortises
cut, I marked out the curves for the tips of the horizontal pieces, then took them over to the disc sander to round off the ends. (gentle music) (machine whirring) To attach the tabletop slats to the base, I again used dominos. Alternatively, you could use pocket screws or a cleat along the bottom
to support the slats. (machine whirring softly) (gentle music) I will include a template for this process as well as full-size templates for all the other pieces in the plans. (machine whirring softly) (gentle music) I then marked out the same
domino placement on the slats. (gentle music) (machine whirring) Finally, I tested the fit.
(gentle music) Now I could glue and clamp
the leg assemblies together. (gentle music) While those dried I cut my
stretchers to their final length. If you wanna keep up with
these projects as I build them, follow me on Instagram
@Timberbiscuitwoodwork. The next step was to mark out the placement for the stretchers. (gentle music) Then I cut in the
mortises with the domino. Again, if you don't have a domino, pocket screws or dowels
would work just fine. (machine whirring) (gentle music) I used a spindle sander to clean up the curve on the leg joints. I have also used a thick
dowel wrapped in sandpaper to accomplish the same result. And if you haven't already done so, please consider subscribing. Thank you so much for your support. (machine whirring) (gentle music) Back at the router table, I
used a large round-over bit to add an edge profile to the
outside of the table legs.
This really adds to the look of the piece and makes it feel more finished. (machine whirring) (gentle music) I also made sure to stop
on the bottom of the base to give the table more surface
area to contact the ground. (machine whirring) (gentle music) Then the tops of the lower stretchers got the same treatment. (machine whirring) (gentle music) For the outside edges of the legs as well as the upper stretchers and slats, I used an eighth-inch round-over
bit to soften the profile. (gentle music) If you're looking to
purchase any of the tools or items you've seen in this video, I will have links in the description.
Now full disclosure, I do
get a few pennies if you buy, but I would never recommend anything that I don't use myself. (machine whirring softly) (gentle music) To fill any knots or voids in the piece, I used Star Bond Black CA glue. (gentle music) Then I sanded all of the pieces through the grits up to 180 grit. (machine whirring) (gentle music) As for the curved edges, I
hand sanded the round-overs to clean up any router marks. (light scratching) (gentle music) To make the glue-up
easier and less stressful, because we all need that,
I pre-glued the dominos into the slats and stretchers.
(gentle music) Then it was time to glue and clamp the entire piece together. I will apologize that this
was cut a little short as my camera did die
mid-way through the glue up. But for this glue-up I am
using Titebond II Extend to give me a little more working time. (gentle music) With everything dry, I left my mark. (gentle music) Next, it was time for finish. I used Rubio Monocoat for this piece, and if you like how this finish looks, you should see the desk I
just made from spalted maple. I'll link the video at the end screen.
(gentle music) Applying this finish is super easy, and it gives excellent
protection from water and dings. You simply apply it with
a white Scotch-Brite pad and then wipe off the excess. (gentle music) I couldn't be happier with
how this piece turned out. The edge details look and feel fantastic, and the maple contrasts
really well with the walnut. And I love how the transitions turned out. Plus, now I have a place to put my coffee. And if you like this build,
check out my other projects. I make new videos all the time, so if you think I've earned
it, please subscribe. I'll see you next time. (gentle music).