152 – How to Build a Wall Hanging Tool Chest (Part 1 of 3)

Voiceover:The Wood
Whisperer is sponsored by Powermatic, the Gold Standard since 1921 and by Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, Create with Confidence. Marc:The project series
you're about to watch was taken from The Wood
Whisperer Guild archive. Now, The Wood Whisperer Guild is the paid membership portion
of the Wood Whisperer site and it's changed a lot over the years.

When we first started it
was really just focused on just whatever random topics
I could come up with, just extra video content. Since then, it's evolved into a very project-focused series of videos that we do a couple times a year. For instance, right now,
we're working on this chair. It's a Greene & Greene
inspired Adirondack chair and the videos cover
every possible detail, multiple ways of doing things. It's just a really fun experience and especially if you're
just learning woodworking, seeing it laid out this way
is really, really helpful. Now the interesting thing
is, the video you're about to watch is on the
wall hanging tool chest.

Now that was something that was before we came up with the Guild Build idea so essentially this chest was really the inspiration for the
Guild Build concept. So you'll notice we go through a lot more in terms of, you know, sort
of describing the logic behind the planning, the
design, and also showing all the mistakes and all the bad decisions that I made and having you sort of walk through that process with me. Eventually that idea blossomed into what we now know as a Wood
Whisperer Guild Build. So I hope you enjoy this series and if you want to learn more about the Wood Whisperer Guild, go to WoodWhispererGuild.com. Thanks for watching. (upbeat music) Now believe it or not, this is where most of my projects start,
right in the kitchen. The kitchen table is nice and big, there's plenty of room to spread out. I've got my laptop here, I've got all my drawing materials, my big giant crazy
triangle, and all my notes and all I need do is start drawing and I've got the computer
right here for reference.

If I want to use Sketch
Up, I can do that too. Now there are a couple different ways you could take this project. You could try to just
make a really beautiful wall hanging cabinet or
you can go all the way on the other extreme and design
it purely for functionality. Maybe even do something in the middle where it's a little bit of both. You know, for me, I'm just
kind of tired of design rules. In fact, design rules
kind of make me sleepy. Nicole:Well, good morning, class. Today we are going to talk
about the Golden Ratio. It's 1.6180339887, blah, blah, blah. A plus B over A equals A over B equals this little thingy.

A plus B is to A as to A is to B. So one more time, A plus B is to A – Mr. Spagnuolo, are you listening to me? (ruler smack) Marc:You think this is
easy to sit through? What don't you try it? 1.6180339887… Now for most people, there's a hump at the beginning of the project that's a little bit difficult to get over. Sometimes just getting it
going is the hardest part. So what I like to do is list
all of the things that I know, the things that are
constants because once you get those down they help guide the things that you don't know or point out the things
that you don't know. It makes them more obvious. So let's go over that quickly and I'll show you some of the things that I know that are
absolutes at this point. Overall, we want this whole thing to pretty much be plywood.

I'm even gonna let the
exposed edges just show because I'm kind of curious
what it might look like. If I use like a Baltic birch, it's got a lot of little plys in there. That's not the uglist
looking thing that I've seen so we're going to leave that exposed. We're going to have some shelves. There's going to be 2
sides and a center divider. I'm going to use 3/4
inch plywood everywhere except for the sliding doors in the front.

The reason for that is number one, we want it to be very strong and number two, the back panel, where we might be tempted
to use a thinner material, is actually something
we're going to drill into and we're going to put some dowels and things like that for storage so we want that extra
material to work with. Now let's break it down into its parts. The top, the bottom, and the sides. Now the sides and the middle are going to connect to the top and bottom
via mortise and tenon joints. The top and bottom, I'm
thinking at this point, will be double ply, 2
sheets of 3/4 inch plywood, giving you about an inch
and a half in thickness. Why? I don't know. I'm going to do something
with the top and bottom that I haven't quite figured out yet, but we'll get to that later, but hopefully it will look cool.

The back panel, we just talked about that, is going to be 3/4 of an inch. We also have to have that back panel inset by about 3/4 of
an inch so that there's a 3/4 of an inch gap in the back and the reason for that is we're going to use a French cleat for
storage and you need at least 3/4 of an inch clearance
if you're going to use a 3/4 inch cleat in the back. The shelves are going to
be dadoed into the sides. So the center panel and the 2 sides on their inside face
will have various dados at different locations
for each of the shelves. We're also going to have to make sure that the center divider, that the dados on the left chamber and the right chamber are actually in different spots. We want to stagger them because if you put a dado on the right and a dado on the left you may just wind up
cutting that board in half.

The sliding doors will be 1/4 inch ply. I mean, if you have some
really nice material or a different species,
go ahead and use that because it's going to look great. If you just have a Baltic birch case, throw some walnut doors
on there or something. That's going to look awesome. And now the 2 things that
we don't know at this point are the overall dimensions, length, width, and depth of this cabinet, and, of course, the interior arrangement. Now this is going to be very different depending on what you
want to put in yours. I'm going to store some planes and a few different hand tools, we'll get to that, but my arrangement's gonna be very different than yours. So just keep in mind what tools you have, what things you want to keep in there, and just rearrange that
interior to suit your needs.

So the only thing left to do at this point is to go out to the shop, take some measurements
from the actual tools, and use those as a guide
to tell us how big, how deep, how tall, how
wide, all that good stuff. So let's run out to the
shop and do just that. Now you can see I got a pretty good amount of stuff on the wall already, all of my chisels, files, some saws, scrapers, things like that. I'm very happy with the
storage as it exists now. What I really want to put in
my tool cabinet is my planes.

I've never quite come up
with a great storage solution so that's really what I'm after. So, of course, I've got all
of my planes on the bench here and the idea is I want to know what are the maximum dimensions
I need to be concerned with. I've got my #7 here and that's going to be the biggest plane in my collection. So I want to know what the length is. That's going to dictate what each half of this cabinet is going to be. This would be in one half and, of course, I want
it to be symmetrical so the other side of the cabinet has to be about the same width.

I need to know – see, I'm going to store them in on the shelf like this so, of course, the side to
side width of this plane is going to be important 'cause that's going to be the height of the shelf and if you go from the bed to the top of the handle area here, that's going to dictate
the depth of the cabinet. So all of these are numbers that I'm going to need to write down.

All these other planes, I might be able to fit 2 on the same shelf, you know? This is about 22 inches
if I remember correctly. Take a quick measurement. Yeah, it's 22 so, of course, I could maybe put my 2 smoothers on the same shelf. Okay, but really what we're looking for is the maximum dimensions. We're also looking to figure out are there some really unusual things that we're going to
need to store in there. Let's go take a look
at my old tool cabinet and I'll show you some of the other things that I'm going to try
to fit into this one. Now you have to excuse the
crappy lighting in this spot. I'm kind of in a dark corner of the shop. So this is the old cabinet. You can see I've got my block planes, shoulder planes, some spokeshaves.

Those are all things I'm going to want to store in the new one. And another thing I find really handy to have in the tool
cabinet is my drill bits. I like to make these little
things that you can pull out and it's really nothing more than a 2 x 4 and some holes drilled into it, but I like to store those in this cabinet. I really haven't found a better place or a better way to store these things so what I'm going to
need to be concerned with are which sets I'm
going to include in here and how tall they are because you can see you need a good amount of
space to fit some of these, like these boring bits up here. The Forstners are a little bit shorter. My brad point bits, things like that. You just gotta make sure you know exactly what you want to put in there, take some measurements, give it a little bit of breathing room 'cause you never know, you might buy a new set in the future.

But for the most part, that's really it. The big planes, these
little guys, little scraper, a couple of these neat little ones that I've gotten from Lee Valley, you know, and the bits themselves. Other than that, that's about all I really need to store in mine so, of course, the inside of my cabinet is going to be a reflection
of the tools that I own. But we can talk as a group and figure out storage solutions for any unusual stuff you might want to put
into your tool cabinet. Now armed with those measurements and all the things that we
already know about the project, I'm going to hop on Sketch Up and I'm just going to use it to work out a few different things
in terms of proportions, just double check and make sure everything looks right. I'm not going to render this
entire thing in Sketch Up. Honestly, it's too time consuming and when you're just building a square box sometimes I think it's unnecessary.

So I like to go in and just make sure my dados are spaced nice and evenly, work out the locations of the shelves, make sure that the proportions of the top and bottom decorative pieces look okay, and maybe even experiment a little bit with different designs
for that top and bottom since that's probably the only place we're going to get really
creative with this project. If you're good at Sketch Up and you really enjoy using it, you can do this whole thing from beginning to end on there. For me, it just takes too much time. I'd rather just use it and get the heck outta there and start building. So let's hop on the computer. Now I'm just going to
use the rectangle tool to create a few boxes that
represent the tool chest. Let's do 1 section at a time. I don't really know the height, so let's just say about 30 inches and the width we want
is 22 and 1/4 inches. Notice that I'm entering the dimensions with my keyboard at the
bottom right of the screen.

pexels photo 313773

Now I'm using the rectangle tool to draw the 3/4 inch partition that'll be between the 2 sections of the chest. I can then add the second
30 x 22, 3/4 inch section and then the 2 outside walls of the chest. And just for the sake of visual reference, let's use the push/pull tool to pull out the sides in the partition
just a few inches. Now what I'm really looking at here is the total width. I added these numbers up before, but for some reason, it wasn't until I saw it in 3D space that it hit me. 46 and 1/4 inches is just too darn wide. It's almost a full 4 feet. So it's back to the drawing board. So horizontal storage, out. We need to come up with
a different solution.

How about vertical? Well, if we store these vertical, you're going to have a
little bit of a safety issue. You've got to make sure
that it's nice and secure. Now I saw this idea on the internet and I wish I could give
credit to the person, but I don't remember
exactly where I saw it, but they were stored vertically and not on any kind of an incline, basically right up against the back panel and there was a little
wooden clip that you could rotate around and hold the
front end of the plane in place.

Now I'm thinking, if you
could put a little groove in the bottom panel as
well to catch the back end, put that into the groove,
pull this thing around, and now that's gonna
be pretty darn stable. I'm actually really happy with that idea. So vertical storage, unless
you have endless wall space, vertical storage seems like the way to go if you have these longer planes like this. So now I'm looking at the arrangement, putting everything flat onto the bench, and seeing what I can
come up with that would be a logical solution for the
right side of this cabinet. Okay, so let's mock up
the arrangement here. I'm going to use my purple
inlay here as a guide, pretend that's the bottom of the cabinet.

Put the #7 in first, #5, I'm gonna give them about a 1/2 inch, maybe a little bit less,
between each plane. Here comes the #4. I get to this point and number one, I want room to expand so
I do want some space here. I don't want to go all the
way to that 22 and 1/4, but, you know, I'd like
a little bit more room just in case I pick up some
more planes in the future.

For now though, I think I can take my Blum smoother and lay it this way. That's going to look really cool and it's still going to be less than the 22 and 1/4 that we had before. And let's see what we're looking at. It's about 19 inches. I think I can get away with 19 and 1/2. Let's say, just to be safe
and for easy calculation, 20 inches and even at 20,
when you multiply it by 2, I'm actually losing 4 and
1/2 inches on the total width which brings this down to a
much more reasonable number.

The other thing that I
have to work with now is all of this extra
space is just going to be a flat panel that I can work with which means I could add some of my more oddball things into this area using pegs, you know,
maybe put some shelves if I feel so inclined
to try and figure out a way to put them in there, but at the very least, with peg storage, I could fill up all this extra space and it's going to look pretty
darn cool at the same time.

So I think this is a
good working arrangement that we can now go with so let's head back to the computer. Now we're going to do the same thing we did last time, only in this case, we're restricting each
compartment to 19 inches. Now the total width is
only 40 and 1/4 inches which is a 6 inch difference
from the previous design. Now another thing I like
to use Sketch Up for is to determine the
length of my side pieces. I'm just going to make a very rough sketch of the arrangement from a side view.

So starting from the rear, we would have a 3/4 inch
gap for the French cleat. And now this rectangle
is going to represent the back panel at 3/4 of an inch thick. Next we have a 6 inch
internal storage space which should be plenty
for our biggest plane. And now I'm going to draw
in the sliding doors. I'm giving myself an
extra 1/8 inch clearance and then I'll draw the
first 1/4 inch door. Now we'll have a 1/4 inch
gap between the doors and then here's our second 1/4 inch door. Now just to be a little more thorough, let's draw in the grooves that the sliding doors will ride in. These are going to be about 1/4 inch deep. And now from the back to
the front of the door, we have 8 and 3/8 of an inch. Now for the actual side
pieces of our case, we're going to want to
clear those sliding doors by about 1/4 of an inch. So I'm going to call the
side pieces 8 and 5/8.

The final thing I need Sketch Up for is to help me look at a few possibilities for our top and bottom. So I start by drawing a rectangle that represents the case itself, which we know now is 8 and 5/8 inch deep by 40 and 1/4 inches long. The top and bottom will
extend past the sides by about an inch and a half and past the front by about 3 inches. Then I draw the outer rectangle which represents the rough bottom. Now remember, I'm by no
means a Sketch Up expert so when I'm experimenting like this I typically do things that are
not considered best practice in the world of Sketch Up
and I really don't care.

I'm just trying to get
a ballpark visual here and I know what I need
to do to get that done. So I think what I want to do is add a gentle curve to the front and I start by making reference marks 1 inch back from each front corner. I then take the curve tool
and I tap each reference mark that I just created and then
bring that line to the front and you can see it gives
you a nice curved line. I just erase the little
dog ears on the corner and I've got a pretty good representation of what I'm going for. Now just to get a better visual, I'm going to use the push/pull tool to extend the center rectangle upward. And now I can see how
things are going to look. I'll also extend the bottom down about an inch and a half since that's really the thickness that I want. And that looks pretty good. Now here's where you can
start to play a little. Let's see how things look if we maybe add a curve to the
sides as well as the front.

Using reference points and the curve tool, we can get an idea of whether or not this concept even has merit. Now someone may like that. I don't think it's what I'm going to use, but you can see how you
can play with these things and just push and pull and
do whatever you need to do without ever cutting wood
and you have a pretty good idea of what works and what doesn't. Now I've got just about every dimension and every number I could possibly need to build this piece.

The one major thing that I haven't covered yet is the height. Now we know that the largest
#7 plane requires 23 inches. It's actually 22, but I want
to give myself a little bit of extra clearance and that's going to be our vertical internal dimension is 23. Now I can go with that number, but I could also go a little bit taller. So this is one of those
cases where I do like to go to a design ruler, a
design rule of thumb let's say and use something like the Golden Ratio to determine what would
be the optimal height.

Now if you're not familiar
with the Golden Ratio, definitely look it up. You'll see it's referred
to as the Golden Section, the Golden Rectangle. It basically refers to
the relationship between two sides of a rectangle in
terms of how long they are. So let's say this was 1 inch, obviously it's exaggerated,
this side is 1 inch, and you want to know what would be the optimal or most
visually pleasing length for the long end and what you would do is multiply by the Golden Ratio number, which is 1.618 and a bunch
of whole other numbers, a bunch of numbers that
I don't really count. I just go 1.618 and call it a day. So you can use that math to determine in a situation like
this, when it's flexible, I could have the height
whatever I want it to be, it's not a bad idea to do it. So let's just see what it gives us. We know that the total
width of this cabinet, basically using the top because it's going to extend a little bit
further than the case itself, so 43 and 1/4 inches
wide is where we're at.

So I'm going to take 43 and 1/4 and in this case I'm
going to divide by 1.618 because the side to side dimension is actually the longer dimension. I don't want it to be
taller than it is wide. So I'm going to divide by 1.618 and the number I get is 26 and 3/4 and that's total height from
the top to the very bottom. Now the top and bottom actual pieces are going to be 1 and a 1/2 inches thick so if I take 26 and 3/4
and I subtract 3 inches, because each one is 1 and a half inches, that leaves me with 23 and 3/4 of an inch and that's my internal space.

Well, that's fine because
I really only need 23. So if I get 3/4 of an inch more and I hit that Golden
Ratio, why the heck not? So that's exactly what we're going to do. And now really, the only thing left to do is gather the materials
and start making our cuts. And we'll do that next time. Thanks for watching. Nicole:Is to A is to B (laughs) Marc:My hands smell
like rubber bands. What? Smack it like you're mad
at me and it's my face. (ruler smack) (laughs) Marc: Hows my acting skills?Nicole:Terrible. Marc:Little less face, please. Will I win an Oscar? Marc: How about a daytime emmy? Nicole:No. Nicole:That's not very attractive. Marc:Really? Is that what I'm going for in my videos, is attractiveness? When did that become a priority?

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