1-01a: An Introduction to Woodworking



so you're interested in learning some basic woodworking or maybe just one a fun class to help explain and solidify what you already know well then welcome to worth the effort woodworking in this introductory to woodworking episode are premiering a new series of classroom style lessons here worth the effort woodworking we've got some ambitious goals hopefully by the end of the video you'll have a good grasp of how pretty much all woodworking tools work and more importantly why something a lot craftsmen still struggle with to this day we do have a small exercise so you go on grab a few surprise just a little hunk of wood just a little piece of scrap is all you need you're going to want a small chisel I prefer a half-inch but anything closer that will be fine you're also gonna want some abrasives to sharpen it with you want some method of holding the work down a simple clamp will work just fine but you're going to see me use an appliance called a bench up something we make here at the shop this will allow me to use this god-given pizza endowed power to actually hold the work down so I do encourage you to participate in the video so if you can pause it they'll grab the supplies you come on back afterwards we will give Izzy now real quickly we're going to be using a chisel in this little exercise and I need y'all to understand something this is probably the most dangerous tool in an entire woodworking shop because basically there is no guard whatsoever and the way most people get hurt is by holding work in one hand and using a chisel in the other and I think you can see why a chisel is a two-handed tool either both hands are on the chisel where the front hand is guiding the direction and the back cam is providing propulsion or one hand is on the chisel and the other hand is on another tool because it is very hard to hurt yourself malla ding a chisel the back of the chisel like that ok so you have to be very very careful with the chisel again I'm quite confident more people get hurt and cut with a chisel they any other woodworking tool out there having said that we are going to do something and in this exercise which goes against that rule we are going to see me using a bench hook and I'm actually going to hold the work in one hand and use a chit on the other but when you see the exercise I think you'll understand this is actually a fairly safe exercise this is one of the few exceptions but I'm starting you out in this work introductory woodworking doing an exception I just need y'all to understand that from the get-go always be careful around the chisel now what I want you to do is take your scrap piece of wood and holding your chisel like a pencil except tilt the handle away from you so that the far corner is what's going to be touching the wood and we're going to drag it across then I want you to take the wood and going across the grain I want you to try and draw some straight lines I want you to pay attention to how the chisel feels going through the wood how easy it is to confer you to control the direction try reversing it to have the bevel go the other way try and draw lines as close to the up each other as possible notice that you have control it's actually fairly easy to draw a straight line because the bevel just wants to go straight but try going into the same groove a couple times do you continue to get work done or does it just kind of stop working experiment just draw a bunch of lines going across the grain I want you to feel the sensation feel how it's cut up bumping up and down as you go across I'm pumped up you can see it in my chisel handle how it's just kind of dumping down the hardness of the grain wood as it goes through various just notice the amount work you're doing the type of work that's getting done next I want you to do the same exact exercise except go with the grain I want you to try and draw a straight line are you controlling where the blades going or is it kind of following what the wood does how hard or how easy is it to draw straight line are you getting much work done at all when you're doing this can you draw a line right next to the other one or does it just kind of pop in if you go in the same line multiple strokes does this keep working or does it just kind of stop working feel what's happening at that cutting edge now I want you to take the hint de chisel in both hands where the front is going to provide direction and the backs going to provide propulsion go ahead and lay that chisel a couple millimeters from the end maybe a quarter inch and just give it a little push at a slight angle I want you to see how much work you're getting done how straight the lines are how smooth the shading is how much work is actually happening here I mean that was what four or five strokes and I'm about of the third of the way through the board now try the same exact experiment except going across a grain lay that blade down flat just a maybe a quarter of inch from the edge and give this a slight push forward at angle gnosis clean cut how much work you're getting done how easy it is just draw a straight line I mean I don't know about you but this is this kind of cutting is just almost perfect stret ready to go straight to the joint to the glue up now I want you to take that chisel lay it flat going across the grain and if you have a mallet or something go ahead and give it a strike if not just lean on it really hard I'm going to strike it a couple times right in the middle for really driving it in I want you know after a while how it stops going down I mean I can keep hitting it and it's still not going to go anywhere but also once you notice one other thing how much work got done nose note would escaped all we actually did was we severed the fibers on one side and compressed it on the other no wood left this board it's all still in there so this was a brutal strike against the chisel and this right here has more pressure against the edge of the chisel than just about anything you can do in woodworking which is why when you're chopping mortises you tend to dull the end quite a bit now once you do the same exact thing just come to the edge maybe a quarter of an inch in and go ahead and give you the same strikes notice what happens the wood kind of breaks off now and we can continue to go down until we get through the entire board and actually go into my bench hook but you get the idea the wood has an escape path this time so now it made a clean cut and the power kept going being transferred into the board to continue to sever the fibers now let's do the same exact thing except this time going with the grain I want you to stick it right in the middle of the board just like we did the first time and give it a few strikes let's see what happens the thing we have to understand is woodworkers is that in its 400 million years of existence ten times longer than grass has been on earth trees were never meant to be furniture they were never meant to be housing material for anything other than bugs birds and squirrels a tree was never meant to be square flat or gloss smooth its only purpose was to transfer nutrients from the ground to the leaves and back and forth maybe to get that canopy up into the high enough to do some good and it's doubtful that we'll ever change despite all the genetic manipulation we can do I mean we can make a three-tailed glow-in-the-dark Mouse that spins web right now but doubtful we will ever really modify trees that much for one simple reason a scientist could go through several generations of mice unites single year much more much more generations of flu crimes but is inverse whenever we talk about trees because the scientists might want to get one or two generations of trees in their lifetime so it's unlikely we will ever have anything change wood will always be cantankerous fibrous really difficult to deal with unlike other man-made materials such as metals and plastics which we can modify to our own advantage so we are stuck with having to deal with the peculiarities of wood so we have to modify it the way we interact with it to get anything done well we just experience moving this chisel over our round through and against this piece of wood should give you a good example of how all woodworking tools interact with wood ok so we have those two boards here and you can see that the chisel went in about 1/3 of the way on each board and then because the pressure was building up so much on the inside remember the wood did not escape it had no escape path like when it had we were chopping down here going across the grain the wood could escape so we could keep going with no danger because there was no escape path that pressure built and because wood is very weak going with the grain notice that crack is not straight along the side and actually follow the pattern of the grain well that pressure built up until the wood just snapped in half because of that weakness whereas when we went across the grain I could hit that as hard as I want and eventually the chisel stopped going down because the pressure of the end grain which is very very strong pushing against it caused it to stop going down and if you think about it a tree grows lengthwise so the tree grew like this and that has to hold a lot of weight pressing down from the canopy so all the tree strength is going up and down which is why it compressed instead of split the board all the way across now let's take a closer look at what these other cuts did whenever we were taking the edge going with the grain I cut several times going this way and basically it just kind of stopped working but you can tell by those grain cuts that it was following the pattern of the grain the blade had a hard time hopping over the grain to go from saw would to the other side of the part lake growth so it kind of follow the path of grain by going on the edge but when I went across the grain it was very easy for me to straw straight lines in fact it didn't matter which way the grain was curving it just hopped across them and I could feel it as it was going from soft wood to hard with the soft because a chisel was vibrating a little bit but also notice that whenever I severed fibers from both sides because grain is very weak going this way all of a sudden those things were just popping out on their own I mean they just separated very easily so basically if I severed the fibers on both sides there is nothing keeping that wood in the cut and it just popped out what we just experienced here was basically every single cutting tool in the woodworking world either wood blades are going across grain they're going with grain or they're going through grain in a variation of going krauser with the grain you are either cutting on the tip with the edge or you are planning with a flap every single woodworking tool has to deal with those kinds of cuts so let's take a look at a lot of other examples of tools I have got two saws here identical with the exception of the teeth the part of the saw that interacts with the wood here's a close-up picture of those two I'd like you to pause the video and analyze a picture discuss it if you're in a group come up with a reason why manufacturing would make identical saws you have different teeth I want you to think conceptualize and reason a good explanation it's a skill you really need to develop as a woodworker especially as you design and build your own furniture when you've come up with an answer come back to the video and we'll discuss now these two saws epitomize just but every single woodworking tool out there in terms of function now some of y'all might have caught on to that one saw has a few more teeth per inch than the other that's a very good observation but it's not a Riperton to where we were going with this discussion what I really wanted you to focus on was the shape of the teeth the part of the soul that is actually interacting with the fibers I wanted you to notice the difference so let's talk about those real quickly did you notice that one of the saws-all the teeth came to a point so then you had a bunch of teeth coming up and every other tooth had a little bevel on it the reason why you saw every other tooth has a bevel because the bevel on this tooth was on the other side so basically the bevels would interact on either side so as a wood saw went through the board it would slice a little bit to this side a little bit to that side and did the part of the fibers in the middle would either fall out because if you remember when we went across the grain when we sliced it down one side and then the other those fibers because they are weak going with the grain just kind of popped out the problem was that when we went with the grain it tended to track and stay on the side of the softer wood so whenever rolled up next to hard wood it would come back in so we had a harder time controlling the direction of our chisels this saw right here is exactly like if we had one chisel facing this side into the very next tooth we flipped it around move just slightly over and placed it on the other side so basically the saw became a thousand chisels alternating their bevels so that they could slice across the grain just a millimeter on either direction that was called a cross cross cutting saw it was designed to go across grain the other saw you notice all the teeth were kind of flat like that and yes they kind of went either way but the cutting edge was flat that was like if we held a bunch of chisels in line flat across and we saw this direction and if you remember when we laid the chisel down flat and pushed across going with the grain it got a lot of work done fast and it made a nice smooth cut but if we did that same thing going across the bring it just kind of split it apart because once again wood is weak going with the grain and because we have a wedge here it kind of separated it took advantage of that weakness it got splintered all over the place this kind of salt is called a rip saw and it's designed to go with the grain because of the cutting edge so as a practical exercise I've got my two sauce here I've mix them up so I don't really know which is which I placed a board and my advice and I put it at a slight angle because I'm going to slow straight down as per gravity and that way these these saws will have to go across grain if they want to go straight down so let's just see the difference that these two saws have and you decide which is a cross cutting which is a rip saw so here we go I'm going to hold it with a almost very little pressure and actually no pressure pushing the salt plate down just the weight of the saw is actually going to do the cutting so here we go 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 slices to bottom the saw blade out on the cutting edge I also look at the salt line and it is kind of a little bit wavy as it went across the grain put this one down pick up the other one right next to it same out pressure same amount everything your white difference is that I didn't teeth in the sauce here we go 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 8 a strikes saw pushes the bottom it out and I look at the salt straight cut and it is slightly straighter than the other one so just by the performance of these saws are they cut twice as fast and a little bit more accurate I'm going to assume this is the ripsaw so look at the teeth sure enough the teeth are cut straight across now let's do the same exact experiment going across the grain with the same piece of wood so here we go now here's because I now know which saws which I want you to listen and you can tell the cutting action that's happening 1 2 3 4 5 6 6 I've bottomed out on the twin screw now come over here grab this saw I know this is the ripsaw so that's a wrong salt for this time you hear the sound difference it's just shredding the wood and it's not actually if you're creating a huge draw it does the same amount of work but you can tell it just did a lot more damage on the back side and this side right here is a lot rougher so you justify that fact that these cross-cutting teeth are just I mean these rip teeth are just not as good for going across a grain it more shreds it than slices it whereas a cross-cutting teeth because they are points you can hear the difference they are kind of slicing the wood so now let's go to look at some more power and hand tools to look at their cutting edges to see how they interact with the dead tree corpses so I have a miter saw here probably one of the first power tools a lot of DIY homeowners buy them for themselves one of the bigger power tools out there designed specifically for making cross-grain cuts crosscut you would never put a or ten going this way they're always going to be lengthwise and because of that we can make an assumption here let's like a taupe closer look at the blade in this thing now because this saw is designed to go across grain if you look closely at the teeth every other tooth has a slightly different angle now is it is extreme as the hand saws that we use those are generally about 15 degrees these are probably only about 5 degrees but they do alternate and if you look at the bevels underneath they're slightly different more like those hand socks this blade is designed specifically for cross cutting now the problem is it's a 10-inch blade and a lot of people think that they look just like the blades you see in your table saws and a lot table saw blades are designed for rip cuts so that the teeth are cut straight across all the way around have you ever been the jobsite and look at the end of boards you see that they're all shredded or burnt but guess what they probably have the wrong blade in there chop saws or miter saws now here we have a small contractor table saw table saws are designed to do both rips and cross cuts depend upon if you're just ripping something along this way or you maybe put a crosscut sled on it or use a miter slot to go across the grain it can do both and a lot of people will swap out blades for if they're doing a rip cut or a cross cut a lot of amateurs end up doing cross cuts with rip blades or rip cuts with cross cuts and they don't get their exact results they want and they get frustrated me I've only got I'm cheap I'm going I've only bought one blade so I have one blade in here that has two teeth error angle and then the middle tooth is a raker in each one of these five two sets so the middle tooth does ripping action and the outside for kind of do cross cuts a slice of grain what that means is this saw blade doesn't do rip cuts great and it doesn't do cross cuts great but it will do both of them halfway decently and for me this is a rough tool it's not the last blade that's gonna cut those fibers so that's okay by me there are other tools that are the same way where they do go both crosscut and and their blades compensate for that fact now if you are ever in a milling place where they're where they're basically making boards and they're just slicing all day long I guarantee that the blades they have in their Sol's are going to be ripped because that's all it does so Maas will be efficient doing it now here's a bandsaw these teeth it's going to be a little bit harder to see in the picture the angles I'm afraid you're just going to take my word for it but if you ever look at a band so I'll go look up closing the teeth the bandsaw blades there are a lot more variations in them for the simple reason of how we use band songs a lot of times we're using band saws to resaw little thick lumber down to thin lumbers and generally that is going to be a long rip cut as you cut the board in half but we also do cross cuts and one of the main things people by band saws force is the fact that they can cut curves which means you're going cross and rip all in the same cut but if you analyze it really closely I have a board right here if I were to draw a circle on this board for example drawing a big curve you will notice that very little of it maybe up top and right here is a true rip cut most of it is a variation of a cross cut coming around so when you buy a general-purpose bandsaw blade a lot of times they are going to be predominantly a crosscut teeth configuration and if you've ever been cutting a circle on a bandsaw you notice that sometimes it's a little bit faster and easier to cut going across the grain and then when you get down to the ripping situations it slows down big-time you saw in the example a cross cutting salt in a ripping situation cuts a lot slower so we have to adapt to it I guarantee a lot of those people that are using band saws – no trees and stuff like that they're doing dedicated rip cuts so that they put a dedicated rip cutting blade in their saw for the simple reason it's easier it's faster it's let it requires less horsepower and it gets the job done better smoother if you've ever done a Riesling job with a dedicated cross cutting blade a bandsaw you understand why it never seems cut straight kind of wanders around well that's a sensation when we were dragging the chisel along the rib section you knows how it followed the grain more where the when we laid the chisel on his side in a ripping configuration it could care less which way the grain was going that's why a dedicated ripping blade and the bandsaw would do a lot better work in a long rip cut now let's throw you a little curve woodturning I've got a bowl right here the tree and this one actually grew lengthwise so I'm actually spinning the tree on this side when I'm turning it so am i doing a crosscut or a red cut that's the reason why both wood Turner's tend to have so many radically different shape cutting edges from skew chisel to spindle gouges which have a very narrow flute in them to bowl gouges which have a thick flute into them all of these allow us to change the cutting angle of the blade to interact with the wood in the proper way and Bowl turning is really complicated because you're doing both cross cutting and ripping at the same time but if you're turning a spindle which is like this handle laying on the side the tree would be alongside you're mainly doing ripping cuts when you're smoothing out sideways and doing cross cuts when you're going with grain that so that way you present the tool that you're using something like a skew either sideways for like a ripping cut or cross down the point like when you're doing crosscut the thing that information transfers even when you're going round and round and round and round now let's look at some common hand tools specifically my marking tools I use a knife a lot of times from making joinery but a lot of those cuts are going across the grain even my dovetails while I'm slicing down a board to make the dovetails I'm somewhat going across the grain so the Mike knife makes sense now if I'm cutting the base line for that dovetail a lot of times I will use a gauge these modern-day will get I really do love but they are a slicing tool so they're actually a lot better going across the grain than they are going with the grain where I have to really focus on keeping it pressed hard so it doesn't pop over or follow grain path and very very the line a lot of people would take a traditional marking gauge for making long ripping marks and follow the pins differently so that they don't interact with the grain as much more like a ripping saw blade other tools hand claims if you think about it a hand plane is a ripping tool it's just like holding the chisel flat against of wooden pushing if you go across the grain a lot of times it shreds the wood now do we use hand plants when cross grain oh yes we do but a lot of times when we're doing that we shape the blade in a very ready with a steep radius so it's somewhat slices across almost as if you are taking a knife and going across a bent blade and then letting the severed sides lift out in the middle but most of the time we are taking long passes going with the grain now can you do it a handplant across in grain cross grain stuff like that sure when we do we lower the angle of the blade and most of the time we skew it also to low it or even further so it's making a slicing cut going across the grain much like the knife or the teeth of my cross cutting sauce slicing it and so we modify how we use a blade tool to interact with the wood whether it's a cross cut or a rip even on simple tools like a hand pump now I'm going to throw you a curveball take a look at these drill bits you tell me which one doesn't belong which one is not a drill bit used mainly for woodworking one of these is also designed to cut plastics metals they even concrete depend upon what the hardest you get so you pause a video and in your group discuss and figure out which one of these does not belong if you guess the gold one you're right you notice it has a point in the middle strop is a general-purpose drill bit designed to be used with PVC pipe metal plastic basically homogeneous materials something that's uniform that doesn't have the grain direction the weaknesses and the strengths of wood it can be used in wood but it's not ideal all these other ones such as this paddle bit have little Spurs on the end and a point in the middle to keep it tracking straight through the wood and the Spurs will slice the cross grain allowing the flats to handle the ripping or carrying out the waste in the middle even Brad point bit such as this one right here cross-cutting Spurs on the end ripping in the middle even for strip bits you hit look analyze the Spurs on the side they're coming to points with bevels just like I cross cutting saws and the flat in the middle is just like our ripping songs so all of these drill bits with the exception of the gold one are designed to deal with both cross grain and ripping cuts I hope you're beginning to see a pattern here pretty much every single woodworking tool ever invented with the exception may be laser cutters which are more science fiction than anything is basically some way of holding a chisel at a certain angle and presenting to wood a certain way so if you can understand that basically if you can figure out how to sharpen one of those tools most sharpen all the other tools will generally make sense so from here today we're going to learn also how to sharpen a chisel now I need to take a side number sharpening in the woodworking world especially if you follow online forums and stuff like that is a lot like a religion basically you have people that advocate using coil stones water stones or the scary sharp method which is basically just sandpaper glued down to some kind of flat substrate like marble or glass rook that you also have lots of contraptions like Tour mechs or work sharp or something like that a lot of people advocate one way is the best way honestly I don't care I'll basically all of them are just a way of a braiding metal in order to get to planes that meet for infinity which is the definition of sharp sharp tools or something we really have to focus on as woodworkers we need to be able to sharpen our tools because you're going to be doing it often the reason why is curly safety not not so much the fact that it works better it's a safer to a sharp tool is a safe tool if you are having to put a lot of muscle forcing a tool through wood that's when things go wrong if you can more focus on letting it glide through and controlling it instead of doing the forcing it's a lot safer tool so we need to figure out how to sharpen them now my thinking is if you can figure out how to sharpen a chisel because a chisel is the foundation for all the woodworking tools we've discussed you could probably figure out a way to sharpen everything else now a good place to start is defining what is sharp in my mind sharp is basically two lines and meet for infinity now some people say sharp is when it shaves a hair on your arms but to me that's kind of scary you notice I got all the hair on my arms I don't do that one I will basically look straight down the edge and if I don't see the edge I can I might see the top of the chisel in the base of the bevel of the chisel but I can't see the edge at all I know it's sharp if I see any glint of light there that's dull because now you have something that is round if the back of the chisel is straight and the bevel of the chisel is straight there's nothing here for light to refract off of it will be the bounce down or bouncing away none of it will bounce back but the moment you add curve to it there is a spot for light to bounce back now it might not but be much like because that's what that's why it will show up as gray instead of a bright point if you see a bright point you know you've got a really dull tool but if it's just a gray line you know you can need to resharpen it and how do you reach arpan it well basically if that's the back of the chisel right there you just move the metal until you get back to two lines that meet for infinity and it should look the same whether you're looking at it with the naked eye or ten thousand magnification microscope now when you buy a chisel one of the first things you have to do is polish the back some people say flatten the back in I'm one of those people I will flatten the entire back of a chisel because I find it makes a better working tool and this would take me a good hour our most chisels to flatten them back to a mirror finish I will say this the more money you spend on the chisel generally they've already done that flattening back flattening in the back for you so there's less labor involved so you might spend more money but you don't you're having to put less labor into it once you got that flat back a bit flat all you have to do is match that flatness with a bevel flatness so that's what we'd spend most of our time sharpening is bringing that bevel down to remove the curve at the end so let's go to the stones and I will show you my method of sharpening in our school basically I keep a little sharpening station to the corner because I don't like spending much more than thirty Seconds to sharpen any of my hand chisels or gouges or any planes or anything like that I hate sharpening I don't want to spend a lot of time on it now the setup I have in the school is because we are a school we have Diamond stones set up I basically have 150 grit or the equivalent you have a thousand grit equivalent 4,000 and 8,000 the reason why I chose Diamond stones is because they limit one step in the normal stone stone sharpening process of having to flatten the stone basically the students can just come up here squirt them with water and get too busy if I were doing this for myself I would not have invested all the money in these Diamond stones then as of right now they're kind of pricey upwards of $100 per on some of the grit levels Mike referred method when I recommend people try out is by a combination water stone a 1008 the grit that's pretty much all you ever need if you really do damage a blade you had to really grind up a lot of metal that's where I would grab sandpaper sandpaper can get really expensive it's all you're using the sharpening because it gets torn yet to replace it quite a bit but for the occasional use or when you're flattening the back of a brand-new blade 220 grit 150 120 grit just to get it started and then moving up to the water stones you have is a good effective way of doing it I've had this 1,000 8,000 grit for going on ten years and up until last about two years ago when I bought these for the school that's all the sharpening I do I also keep this 8,000 grit out because I have found that even though the manufacturers tell you the super super super super extra superfine Diamond stones or the equivalent of eight thousand grit water stones they aren't this actually does polish it a little bit better so I use this with my last little step once again when you buy a chisel you probably need to spend about hour sometimes to on the bigger chisels flattening the back and then putting a mirror finish on it I prefer putting a mirror finish all the way down the back but most people will just put a mirror finish on the last inch because that's pretty much a lifetime of use for most woodworkers we want that mirror finish at the cutting edge because that is the backplane that now needs me to meet with the bevel plane now I've got a chisel right here that is dough I'll show you a quick picture of it because you can see a glint of silver on the edge that's that edge should totally disappear so let's sharpen it up now for students I'm a big fan of using jigs jigs basically use the interior angles of a triangle to for you to figure out your desired angle on your chisel now most chisels are for my students I sharpen at 30 degrees and that's a very common angle for things like planes you what am angling my talking about I'm talking about the angle of the back of the bevel back of the chisel with the bevel angle that comes out to 30 degrees it's a very durable angle you can lower that angle and a lot of people on TV shows and stuff do that one because it will give you easier cutting-edge and sometimes a little bit smoother cut but to lower the angle be less durable that edges you can cut skin with tin foil but that edge is not going to last very long you can also cut wood with a positive 90 degree angle as long as those two angles meet for infinity that's the definition of a scraper scrapers cut it about 90 degrees and they cut all day long it's just those two angles are not rounded over they are sharp so I typically sharpen my students chisels at 30 degrees now easy way to figure that out 30 degrees is with a simple ruler and using the 180 degree triangle drink most woodworking jigs for sharpening operate on some kind of way to hold the chisel at a certain angle in it either roles or glides on something an easy way to determine what that angle will be is basically turning this into a triangle where you have a 90 degree action up here and then your base action right here because the interior angles of all triangles equal 180 degrees so if you have a 90 degree one you know that your other two angles have to also equal 90 degrees so if the triangle we are using has one 90 degree angle which is the definition of a right triangle and both legs are the same length well then that would mean both of these angles right here would be the exact same and 90 minus 180 equals 90 divide that by two and that means both of these would be 45 the thing is though we need ourselves a 30 degree angle so doing the same thing we have 90 in one corner 30 and another 90 30 minus 90 because we have to get the next 90 means that we need this angle to be 60 and here's what's kind of cool and what makes this very easy to find out 60 is twice 30 so basically if we wanted to we could have this top line right here big X and this bottom line think 2 X because 30 60 is twice 30 and that should be our 30-degree angle so somehow you can just step off two times on the base where the height is here that bottom angle will be 30 the other way you could do it and simplify it is trust that the Chinese when they give you instructions on the side of it they did their math properly because they will give you a protrusion from the edge that would give you 30 degrees and this one so happens to be 30 millimeters so according in guidelines were written on the side of jig if I want 30 degrees I would measure out 30 millimeters this is a chinese-made product so they do things in millimeters from the edge of the contraption to the edges of the device now I will say this I like mine a little bit lower than 30 degrees so for my preferred angle I made me a simple jig that I only had to worry about doing the math once and every time after that when I just bumped my jig up to the edge and I get going that's why it's very quick to set these things up tighten up the screw and then we get busy now what I have right here is the equivalent of 150 grit 1000 grit the 4000 grit one disappeared somehow and then I have 8000 grit over here equivalent to water stump what I will do is I will give it a spritz of water now because I don't have to reshape this edge I just need to put the bevel the sharpness back on I'm not going to go to the worst harshest grip I'm just going to go to this 1000 grit equivalent move it back and forth a few times now I'm pressing all my pressure on my fingers you can tell by my nails changing colors none of my weight is on the back all this does is go for Deford if you put anyway all back here you're going to tend to rock it left and right and then just move it back and forth maybe ten times just a little bit and then you want feel for a verb it burns a little edge on the back where the metal is folded over because I've actually ground past that dullness on the end at which point I just go to the next grit and the next grit will remove the past fur and add a burrow of its own generally the burrs a little bit shorter but a little bit more upright and I'm going to take a few extra strokes here because I'm missing the 4000 grit stone and there we go no sharper little more little more upright that's when I will remove it from the jig and the last thing I do is I like to remove the burr on the my water stone just work it back and forth a little bit to remove that bird and not you now have a very sharp edge much sharper than any scalpel out there I like this method simple because it's fast and I'm lazy I don't want to spend a lot of time on it literally you come over it'd take me a few seconds to put it in a jig I walk over ten strokes ten strokes remove the burr get back to work now I like having something set up if all you have is a piece of marble that you buy at Home Depot for a couple bucks and you have glued down paper that's fine just set aside any time you need to sharpen you got your dose just starting to get dulled your toes just starting to get dull go refresh it really quickly it's a lot easier to maintain an edge then is to add a new act in fact I very rarely go to the stones that's Joanie just to repair my my damaged most of the time I can reach underneath my workbench and grab this piece of leather right here and I strop it just like a barber would strop his razor before giving some a shade you just find your leg and left bevel drag it across a few times remove the bird get back to work sharpening should not be something you need to spend too much time now with that little bit of knowledge about sharpening just the chisel I hope through a little thought next strapped elation you can figure out how to resharpen all the other tools now law tools like modern-day table saw and miter saw blades most people either just replace them or send them off to get sharpen because those curb eye tips are just way too sharp hard to deal with but all your hand tools your solids and stuff like that there's just variations to what we just did here to sharpen those up so it's all easily doable from my home from your home now in our next episode we are going to be using all these same tools the chisels a mallet some whip clamping down your wood I'm going to be using a holdfast next time but just a little clamp will do and a slightly bigger piece of wood so if you want to collect those for your neck for the next episode go ahead and do that now and be prepared we're going to work a little bit more on the interaction between the tools in the wood and a fun little exercise that you'll enjoy you probably end up throwing away afterwards but you'll have fun and then you will learn quite a bit more than what we've covered today on the interaction between the tool and the wood I hope you enjoyed this video we're going to take away something new from it I've always enjoyed teaching which is why I cashed in my retirement and savings to open up this low woodworking school but good intentions are wrong won't keep the school a lot we need support from individuals like you so if you see value in a place educate our next generation of woodworkers please consider liking and sharing the video maybe subscribing to the channel and if you believe more videos like this would be beneficial to you and others maybe visiting our website worth the effort calm on our support page to learn about other ways you can support the school and one last thing I want you to remember it is always worth the effort to learn create and share with others y'all be safe and have fun oh don't think I'm gonna let you get away without signing a little homework I got two tools here take a good hard look at them pause the video if you needed to and you tell me are these design for making rip cuts or cross cuts and if so why would certain cuts actually burn the wood and sends the tool leave your answer in the comments below

pexels photo 4792478

You May Also Like